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wayne.e(at)grandecom.net
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 Posted: Sun Aug 27, 2006 6:28 pm Post subject: Nose wheel problem |
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A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the Dallas area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and I'm very lucky to have his help.
Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is having and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem and I think it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take off the nose wheel fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each side of the fork. We then inserted roll pins in each of the holes allowing them to protrude through into the inside by a small amount. We then took the newly supplied bushings and milled a small grove into the edge of the bushing which will allow the roll pin on the interior part of the fork to slide into. This method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would have liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the photos because they aren't on the summary distribution just e-mail me if you would like to see them I will forward them directly to you.
Wayne Edgerton # 40336
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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| Posted: Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:24 pm Post subject: Nose wheel problem |
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That's basically what I had said was an excellent solution. I'd
do it myself, but with the deep grove worn in my fork, I'm not
sure how much I want to drill mine until I get a new fork.
But, one thing about that solution is that as it wears in,
you'll still have to worry about the bearing spinning against
the inner edge of that spacer if you don't have lots of tension
on it. The seal is draggy on that bearing, and you may end up
having the bearing not turn, but turn on the axle shaft instead.
If that happens, you're going to need to shave a little off your
axle shaft to get the tension back.
So you've got a great solution. Randy did about the same thing
a couple weeks ago. Just make sure the preload is good on
the bearings.
Tim
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
| Quote: | A good friend of mine was down from Iowa this weekend, I'm in the Dallas
area, to help me on my plane. He is a very good A&P and I'm very lucky
to have his help.
Anyway we discussed the front wheel bushing problems the 10 is having
and here is the solution he suggested to fix the problem and I think
it's a really a good idea. What we did was to take off the nose wheel
fork and we drilled a 1/8inch hole into each side of the fork. We then
inserted roll pins in each of the holes allowing them to protrude
through into the inside by a small amount. We then took the newly
supplied bushings and milled a small grove into the edge of the bushing
which will allow the roll pin on the interior part of the fork to slide
into. This method will definitely stop the bushing from turning.
I've attached some photos, which I hope will make it easier to
understand. The focus on the pictures wasn't as good as I would have
liked but you will get the idea. If you can't retrieve the photos
because they aren't on the summary distribution just e-mail me if you
would like to see them I will forward them directly to you.
Wayne Edgerton # 40336
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mike(at)cleavelandtool.co
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| Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:08 am Post subject: Nose wheel problem |
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FYI
I just got off the phone with Ken K. the Engineer at Van's and he
enlightened me on how the new parts are to be installed on this nose wheel.
This may have been covered, but I didn't notice it.
First the axle is supposed to be "floating" in between the fork not at such
a length that it is compressed by the fork. I was under the impression that
it was supposed to be just the right length so that when the spacers were
tight against the bearing (causing the bearing to remain stationary) that
the axle would then be tight. I saw something about using a feeler gauge
and sanding the end of the axle. According to Ken the axle is used to
support the bolt and keep the bearings centered, and it's length should be
about 1/16" shorter than the sum of the other parts when torqued.
Second the entire assembly should be torqued to the torque spec for the bolt
that goes through the fork and axle. He says this seems like a lot of
torque, but Matco says that it is fine for that bearing and it gives enough
pressure for the new spacers to lock on to the bearing. He says the wheel
will be draggy, but that is the way it is supposed to be. Again at this
point the axle will be floating inside the assembly. The assembly can also
be checked simply by re-torqueing during inspection. This method of
adjustment skirts the 'this feels about right' method of adjustment.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
--
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bcondrey
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 580
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| Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:26 am Post subject: Nose wheel problem |
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Sort of matches what I was told by Tom Green. Big difference is that I
had the old axle and they shipped me new spacers without mentioning that
the new axle was 1/16" shorter than the old! I had been making the bolt
torque per standard spec for that size bolt but without the knowledge of
the shortened axle you would never achieve proper fit of all parts. I
haven't gotten around to pulling things apart again to trim the axle but
have written with red Sharpie on the fork that it has to be done.
Thanks for the diligence!
Bob
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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| Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:49 am Post subject: Nose wheel problem |
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Thanks Mike, this is very good info. I can tell you that the
parts as supplied seem to really not work this way in real
life, because that axle definitely is bottoming out on the
forks, but this tells me that I should probably shave my axle
down a bit so it does float. This might really help alleviate
some of the issues with the spinning spacers too, since now
they and the bearings/wheel are the sole items that keep the
forks separated from eachother...not the axle. It does
drastically change the viewpoint though of those who said
the axle bolts should just be snugged up....if that were the
case, the spacers wouldn't carry through much force.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote:
[quote]
FYI
I just got off the phone with Ken K. the Engineer at Van's and he
enlightened me on how the new parts are to be installed on this nose wheel.
This may have been covered, but I didn't notice it.
First the axle is supposed to be "floating" in between the fork not at such
a length that it is compressed by the fork. I was under the impression that
it was supposed to be just the right length so that when the spacers were
tight against the bearing (causing the bearing to remain stationary) that
the axle would then be tight. I saw something about using a feeler gauge
and sanding the end of the axle. According to Ken the axle is used to
support the bolt and keep the bearings centered, and it's length should be
about 1/16" shorter than the sum of the other parts when torqued.
Second the entire assembly should be torqued to the torque spec for the bolt
that goes through the fork and axle. He says this seems like a lot of
torque, but Matco says that it is fine for that bearing and it gives enough
pressure for the new spacers to lock on to the bearing. He says the wheel
will be draggy, but that is the way it is supposed to be. Again at this
point the axle will be floating inside the assembly. The assembly can also
be checked simply by re-torqueing during inspection. This method of
adjustment skirts the 'this feels about right' method of adjustment.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
--
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Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com
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| Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:54 pm Post subject: Nose wheel problem |
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If the axle is shorter, then it is likely going to spin inside the spacer, just like when it was the other way the axle was pinned and the spacers rotated. I would think you would want the axle pinned by tightening the axle bolt till it was up against the fork and then have the proper length spacers to provide enough force on the bearing so the spacers don't spin and that way the bearing would be the only parts rotating.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
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mike(at)cleavelandtool.co
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| Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:15 pm Post subject: Nose wheel problem |
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I asked about the axle spinning, the answer was: 'What will make the axle
spin? If the spacers are torqued down tight on the bearing, the inner race
of the bearing is not going to turn, thus the axle will not turn'. Matco
said that if you got both the axle and the spacer just right then the spacer
would loosen with wear and either the spacer or the bearing would spin.
With this setup the pressure always carries from fork to spacer to bearing
to wheel to bearing to spacer to fork and if anything gets loose it is
because it is not torqued correctly.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
--
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:25 pm Post subject: Nose wheel problem |
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I agree with that too. In this scenario, you'd have to still
pin it like you say, in some manner.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
[quote]
<Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
If the axle is shorter, then it is likely going to spin inside the
spacer, just like when it was the other way the axle was pinned and
the spacers rotated. I would think you would want the axle pinned by
tightening the axle bolt till it was up against the fork and then
have the proper length spacers to provide enough force on the bearing
so the spacers don't spin and that way the bearing would be the only
parts rotating.
Thank You Ray Doerr
--
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