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instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions

 
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Deems Davis



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 6:47 pm    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

I'd like any input regarding the installation of the above items. I
don't bend like I used to and want to avoid as many contortions as
possible, to that end I'd like to leave the fuse opened up as long as
possible.

1. What things can I go ahead and attach to the instrument sub-panel
while it's 'transportable' i.e not riveted to the Fuse?
a. Other than the modifications to open up areas for avionics
mounting, what other access holes have builders put in the sub-panel?
b. has anybody installed anything on the FORWARD side of the
sub-panel? What?
c. Any other recommendations for sub-panel work before
installing the upper fwd fuse?

2. How long can I leave the Cabin cover drilled/clecoed' before riveting
it to the fuse? can the doors be(accurately) fit to the cabin w/ the
cover only clecoed vs riveted?

3. Is it easier to install the windows with the cover on or off of the Fuse?

I appreciate any input you might have.

THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing Fuse / Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/


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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:08 pm    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

Deems Davis wrote:
Quote:


I'd like any input regarding the installation of the above items. I
don't bend like I used to and want to avoid as many contortions as
possible, to that end I'd like to leave the fuse opened up as long as
possible.

1. What things can I go ahead and attach to the instrument sub-panel
while it's 'transportable' i.e not riveted to the Fuse?
a. Other than the modifications to open up areas for avionics
mounting, what other access holes have builders put in the sub-panel?

I put a larger one in. No huge reason, but it ended up coming in
handy to use as arm and vision access while mounting the Lightspeed
and WSI stuff on the aft side of the upper firewall. I put a bunch
ov various holes in the subpanel for wire passthroughs.

Quote:
b. has anybody installed anything on the FORWARD side of the
sub-panel? What?

I have an E-Bus schottky diode there, in a protective case.
And, I put the stall buzzer there too.
Quote:
c. Any other recommendations for sub-panel work before
installing the upper fwd fuse?

2. How long can I leave the Cabin cover drilled/clecoed' before riveting
it to the fuse? can the doors be(accurately) fit to the cabin w/ the
cover only clecoed vs riveted?


I think you'll naturally feel when you need to have it riveted
by just working along through the plans. I can't see why you
wouldn't be able to fit the doors without riveted, but you
should probably install the countersunk bolts before fitting the doors
so that everything is at least in the exact place.
Quote:
3. Is it easier to install the windows with the cover on or off of the
Fuse?


I don't know. It may be easier to install the windows with it off, but
it may make it harder to work with the canopy when putting it on,
and it would sure not be fun if you dislodged or scratched them in
some freak happening while reattaching the canopy.
Quote:
I appreciate any input you might have.



You're getting to the point where some of the things start to get
a little tougher for the tall/older/slightly oversized. I fit into
a couple of those categories well, and one slightly. Wink I wired
my panel almost fully while installed. Not that I think that's
best....I had my reasons, but I can definitely see benefits of
doing it out of the plane too. But anyway, you're reaching the point
where you start physically suffering a bit more in the build.
I would just say try to have anything placed on the firewall inside
that you intend to leave there. Ground tab blocks, large wire
passthroughs, and anything like that. You can actually attach
the canopy and leave the forward fuse off for a while if you wish.
I think I did the canopy on mine before the forward fuse, and just
slid it in place later. So I think it's plenty do-able. It
won't be too long though after where you're at and you'll be
putting a windshield in, and other things, so access will definitely
get harder. You're coming up on what I think is about the 1/2
way point of the kit in terms of hours pretty soon...about
the time you put the windshield in. So now things start to
get both harder, and more fun. Just hang in there. One thing
you DON'T want to attach until the last minute is the sticks.
Leave the seats out as long as possible too. That way you can
lay a board down over the seat area and lay on it.

Tim

Quote:
THANKS


Deems Davis # 406
Finishing Fuse / Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/




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ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:30 pm    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

Thanks for breaking my day Tim :-<
I am at the same point as Deems, and after 2.3 years and more than 1700hrs (Slow build), the reality of still being less than 1/2 way there is bit hard to deal with. I was really hoping to be done by this time next year.
Ron
187 - finishing kit is somewhere in Oz.
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billderou(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:56 pm    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

I approached the fwd upper fuselage, panel, and cabin in the following order and in hindsight it worked well.
 
Before the panel & fwd upper fuse were riveted to the lower fuselage I installed avionics, glass PFD, autopilot, engine monitor, voltage regulator, switch, and map box while the unit was on the bench. Three wire bundles [engine bay, left side run, right side run] were collected with long tails and each wire labeled with masking tape. A 37pin Amp plug was mounted to the sub-panel and all panel wiring passes through this plug. My fuse box, from West Marine, was installed on the sub-panel with only three fuses on the outer panel to shed load during an electrical emergency.
 
Rivet the unit to the fuselage and run the bundles into the engine compartment and down the left and right sides. Now two work areas can be addressed independently - engine compartment and cabin. The wires on the side were either spliced or routed to one of my three connectors [L & R wing,  tail].
 
The cabin was permanently installed next. I do not think the doors can be fitted properly unless the fiberglass cabin is in its final resting place. The doors are seated into the cabin opening by beveling both/either edges and small changes in the outer shell can have big effects on the door fit.
 
Before I cemented the front windscreen, I installed the GPS antenna far forward in line with the co-pilot. Note that I also left vertical space so the antenna could be replaced with a newer antenna that supports WAAS.
 
Windows, cabin doors, and FWF were next. Last item riveted were the two top tail skins. Leaving this to last was a big help routing wires through the tail.
 
Bill DeRouchey - billderou(at)yahoo.com (billderou(at)yahoo.com)
N939SB, Kit #40029
Fly next week
 
 
 
 
 
  

Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> wrote:
[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis

I'd like any input regarding the installation of the above items. I
don't bend like I used to and want to avoid as many contortions as
possible, to that end I'd like to leave the fuse opened up as long as
possible.

1. What things can I go ahead and attach to the instrument sub-panel
while it's 'transportable' i.e not riveted to the Fuse?
a. Other than the modifications to open up areas for avionics
mounting, what other access holes have builders put in the


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rvbuilder(at)sausen.net
Guest





PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 4:42 am    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

Deems,

One of the local builders here didn't install the forward deck until
he was a couple weeks from flying. Why? Thank a certain panel builder
for their timely delivery. Wink He had everything done, hung, installed
except for the windscreen, cowl, and anything that would attach to the
deck.

Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
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jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.c
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:21 am    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

Bill, can you post photos of the connector locations. Your description was helpful. Thanks.
 
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com (jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com)
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 12:56 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions

I approached the fwd upper fuselage, panel, and cabin in the following order and in hindsight it worked well.
 
Before the panel & fwd upper fuse were riveted to the lower fuselage I installed avionics, glass PFD, autopilot, engine monitor, voltage regulator, switch, and map box while the unit was on the bench. Three wire bundles [engine bay, left side run, right side run] were collected with long tails and each wire labeled with masking tape. A 37pin Amp plug was mounted to the sub-panel and all panel wiring passes through this plug. My fuse box, from West Marine, was installed on the sub-panel with only three fuses on the outer panel to shed load during an electrical emergency.
 
Rivet the unit to the fuselage and run the bundles into the engine compartment and down the left and right sides. Now two work areas can be addressed independently - engine compartment and cabin. The wires on the side were either spliced or routed to one of my three connectors [L & R wing,  tail].
 
The cabin was permanently installed next. I do not think the doors can be fitted properly unless the fiberglass cabin is in its final resting place. The doors are seated into the cabin opening by beveling both/either edges and small changes in the outer shell can have big effects on the door fit.
 
Before I cemented the front windscreen, I installed the GPS antenna far forward in line with the co-pilot. Note that I also left vertical space so the antenna could be replaced with a newer antenna that supports WAAS.
 
Windows, cabin doors, and FWF were next. Last item riveted were the two top tail skins. Leaving this to last was a big help routing wires through the tail.
 
Bill DeRouchey - billderou(at)yahoo.com (billderou(at)yahoo.com)
N939SB, Kit #40029
Fly next week
 
 
 
 
 
  

Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> wrote:
Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis

I'd like any input regarding the installation of the above items. I
don't bend like I used to and want to avoid as many contortions as
possible, to that end I'd like to leave the fuse opened up as long as
possible.

1. What things can I go ahead and attach to the instrument sub-panel
while it's 'transportable' i.e not riveted to the Fuse?
a. Other than the modifications to open up areas for avionics
mounting, what other access holes have builders put in the

--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by Release Date: 7/13/2006


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jesse(at)itecusa.org
Guest





PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:27 am    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

1. What things can I go ahead and attach to the instrument sub-panel
while it's 'transportable' i.e not riveted to the Fuse?
a. Other than the modifications to open up areas for avionics
mounting, what other access holes have builders put in the sub-panel?
b. has anybody installed anything on the FORWARD side of the
sub-panel? What?
c. Any other recommendations for sub-panel work before
installing the upper fwd fuse?

Jesse: I just put in one big hole for the radio stack, then used the bottom
of the sub-panel to hold adel clamps that all of my wires go through, then
put holes and snap bushings in the sub-panel to route wires through to the
firewall and down to the sides of the plane. I have my instrument cooling
fan, power distribution bus block, MAP Sensor, Ammeter Shunt, and dimmer
boards all on the sub-panel. That makes it really nice to work on the
wiring just by removing the panel. Also, I have the crossbar under the
instrument panel (although removeable with screws) there as an armrest
if/when needed. In N256H we almost completely removed the sub-panel and
then used angles to stiffen it back up, but then we had no good place to
mount all of the things mentioned above. To each his own, but this worked
great for us.

2. How long can I leave the Cabin cover drilled/clecoed' before riveting
it to the fuse? can the doors be(accurately) fit to the cabin w/ the
cover only clecoed vs riveted?

Jesse: You can leave it there for as long as you want, but it will limit the
amount of work that you can do. You may be able to fit the doors safely,
but I don't know it I recommend it. Fitting the doors is a pretty important
part. I guess, if you were to go ahead and bolt/screw the cabin top in
where the door goes, then cleco it where all the pop rivets go, it should be
pretty good. What are you trying to avoid by leaving it off. It is
possible to install the upper forward fuse section after the cabin top is in
place, although it is not quite as easy.

3. Is it easier to install the windows with the cover on or off of the Fuse?

Jesse: I am sure it would be a fair bit easier with the cover off, but much
safer with it on, because you really want to have it in the exact form that
it will stay in before gluing the windows in IMHO.

Hope this helps.

Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285

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Ted French



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 54
Location: Kelowna BC Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:59 am    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

I installed the forward fuse assembly, but left the top skin off. Everything
will be installed behind the panel in such a way that I can remove it to
rivit the top skin on. As much panel wiring as possible is done on the
bench.

Do Not Archive

Ted French
RV-10 wiring
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Ted French
RV-10 fuselage
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jesse(at)itecusa.org
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:14 am    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

One big part of this equation is that installing it is only part of the
decision. Working on it, upgrading, modifying is another huge part. The
more stuff you put in a place that will be hard to get to, the more you may
end up hating yourself down the road. Personally, I like the idea of being
able to install the entire panel, including wiring runs for the whole
fuselage, after the plane structure is complete. If I can get there in the
first place, then I can get there to fix it. It might not look quite as
neat under there when I am done, or quite as clean as having everything on
forward side of the sub-panel, but I guarantee you are going to have fits
when (not if) it comes time to change something.

This brings up another issue. For those who are using Van's standard panel,
cut the thing into at least 2 pieces. That thing is a very tight fit in one
piece, and you are guaranteed to scratch stuff getting it in and out. The
easier it is to take out, the less time you will spend on your back working
under there and the more time you will spend sitting in the nice comfortable
seat working back there with the panel removed. This is just IMHO, but I
have done two now, two different ways, and I am realizing how much of a pain
it is to work under that panel.

Do not archive.

Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285

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Tdawson(at)avidyne.com
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 11:30 am    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

As a "computer hacker sitting at flat screen LCD monitors with 1680x1050
resolution who design aircraft subsystems", I feel hurt . . . : )

TDT
40025
Do not archive

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jjessen



Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 285
Location: OR

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 12:08 pm    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

Anyone trying to make these vunderbar panels tilt down or slide out or
somehow easily removable for future repair or rewire work? Got some
examples you're willing to share. And for those who have been silent all
this time while building the stealth OSH winner, could you please consider
sharing so others can benefit?

Many thanks

John Jessen
-328 (about ready to resume building again, now that the rental is back
together)

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wayne.e(at)grandecom.net
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 3:47 am    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

John,
 
I am having Stein's group build my panel and they will be using the modular type panel like the photos that are attached. Apparently it is a very flexible unit, depending on what you want. The pictures shows it as already being cut but they obviously cut it to whatever you need. It's also, I believe, about 2" longer than the panel from Van's, allowing a little more room to fit stuff in. I like the idea that I will be able to take section apart to get at the equipment.
 
Wayne Edgerton #40336
working on the baffling baffles
 
 

[img]cid:006a01c6a73a$9405fd00$7601a8c0(at)MainOffice[/img]
 
[img]cid:006b01c6a73a$940846f0$7601a8c0(at)MainOffice[/img]
 
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[img]cid:006f01c6a73a$940846f0$7601a8c0(at)MainOffice[/img]
 
[img]cid:007001c6a73a$940846f0$7601a8c0(at)MainOffice[/img]
 
   


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 5:29 am    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

Very nice!  Cost?
 
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org (jesse(at)itecusa.org)
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2006 7:42 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions

 
John,

 

I am having Stein's group build my panel and they will be using the modular type panel like the photos that are attached. Apparently it is a very flexible unit, depending on what you want. The pictures shows it as already being cut but they obviously cut it to whatever you need. It's also, I believe, about 2" longer than the panel from Van's, allowing a little more room to fit stuff in. I like the idea that I will be able to take section apart to get at the equipment.

 

Wayne Edgerton #40336

working on the baffling baffles

 



 

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AV8ORJWC



Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 5:45 am    Post subject: instrument sub-panel, fwd fuse and cabin cover questions Reply with quote

A truly breath-taking example of quality construction, excellent
aesthetics, improved function and the best serviceability of any RV-10
panel yet.

Your's give's Jim Hergert's N6XE panel a major run for its money. Jim's
is my benchmark for High Score (as Randy, Tim, Deems and others already
know). You have raised the bar and hopefully others will take the
challenge. It is great to see a three dimensional approach to leave the
two dimensional panels on the birds of the past. The pictures are
worthy of archive and further study.

Congrats Wayne!

Did you do the fabrication and send it to Stein or is this his work as
well?

John - $00.02
Do not Archive

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