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Windows & Weld-10

 
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billderou(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 10:32 am    Post subject: Windows & Weld-10 Reply with quote

I just finished an excellent job of installing the windscreen in my RV-10 and would like to share the mistakes of installing the previous 4 windows.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
 
In hindsight, three problems needed to be solved:
 
1)      The Weld-10 mix was skinning over too fast and curing within 10 to 15 minutes.  Learned that storing package at room temperature will keep the catalyst from precipitating solids and by mixing only 75% of what is in the small bottle will slow the cure appreciably. However, the mix will still skin over quickly making it difficult to work a fillet around the inside edge. Applying plastic tape to the inside of the window perimeter 3/16” from the edge helps the cleanup significantly but this tape must be removed quickly or it will be captured by the mix.
2)      Vans’s instructions describe the mix should be applied in a thin layer. This and the ability to not apply good pressure normal to the window edge caused may voids between the surface of the window and its fiberglass frame. Suggest applying mix 3/16” thick and covering both the horizontal and vertical edges of the window indentation in the fiberglass. Do not apply any mix to the window. It is easier to clean up the excess than fix the voids.
3)      A good method to apply suitable holding force took several trials. The duct tape method is fair but will not pull the plexiglass down tight. It can  physically hold the window against the mix but will not spread the mix. An “expert” suggested notching the plexiglass edge, drilling holes through the frame and using clecos to hold it tight. After the mix set I noticed small cracks deep underneath the clecos on the rear windows. I can only hope the mix will stop the cracks from progressing or I must drill some large holes. For the windscreen, I notched the plexiglass edge, drilled #30 holes through the fiberglass frame and devised a controllable clamping force using .041 safety wire. Cut up extra #4 Tefzel wire into 1.5” pieces (You’ll find something suitable looking about). Cut 16” of safety wire and fold it over the center of the Tefzel wire and twist it a small amount. Now you have a handle with two long tails. Mark on the window where the notches are so you can find the holes when they are covered with the Weld-10. Apply the mix to the frame and gently press the window exactly in place. Quickly cleco the clips to the metal surface to keep the windscreen from sliding down. With the Tefzel “handle” on the outside, stuff the wire through the holes into the inner cabin. Inside the cabin insert another piece of Tefzel between the wires and pull down twisting with safety pliers. A helper outside can watch the window seat and stop the person on the safety pliers from exerting too much pressure. The Tefzel outer cover will not mark the window nor stick to the mix. The #30 holes can be easily  filled and painted.
 
Bill DeRouchey
RV-10 N939SB, builder 40029
 


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rick.conti(at)boeing.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 10:51 am    Post subject: Windows & Weld-10 Reply with quote

Thanks Bill!!
 
Thank You
Rick Conti
          office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134


From: Bill DeRouchey [mailto:billderou(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 2:32 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Windows & Weld-10

 
I just finished an excellent job of installing the windscreen in my RV-10 and would like to share the mistakes of installing the previous 4 windows.

 

In hindsight, three problems needed to be solved:

 

1)      The Weld-10 mix was skinning over too fast and curing within 10 to 15 minutes.  Learned that storing package at room temperature will keep the catalyst from precipitating solids and by mixing only 75% of what is in the small bottle will slow the cure appreciably. However, the mix will still skin over quickly making it difficult to work a fillet around the inside edge. Applying plastic tape to the inside of the window perimeter 3/16” from the edge helps the cleanup significantly but this tape must be removed quickly or it will be captured by the mix.

2)      Vans’s instructions describe the mix should be applied in a thin layer. This and the ability to not apply good pressure normal to the window edge caused may voids between the surface of the window and its fiberglass frame. Suggest applying mix 3/16” thick and covering both the horizontal and vertical edges of the window indentation in the fiberglass. Do not apply any mix to the window. It is easier to clean up the excess than fix the voids.

3)      A good method to apply suitable holding force took several trials. The duct tape method is fair but will not pull the plexiglass down tight. It can  physically hold the window against the mix but will not spread the mix. An “expert” suggested notching the plexiglass edge, drilling holes through the frame and using clecos to hold it tight. After the mix set I noticed small cracks deep underneath the clecos on the rear windows. I can only hope the mix will stop the cracks from progressing or I must drill some large holes. For the windscreen, I notched the plexiglass edge, drilled #30 holes through the fiberglass frame and devised a controllable clamping force using .041 safety wire. Cut up extra #4 Tefzel wire into 1.5” pieces (You’ll find something suitable looking about). Cut 16” of safety wire and fold it over the center of the Tefzel wire and twist it a small amount. Now you have a handle with two long tails. Mark on the window where the notches are so you can find the holes when they are covered with the Weld-10. Apply the mix to the frame and gently press the window exactly in place. Quickly cleco the clips to the metal surface to keep the windscreen from sliding down. With the Tefzel “handle” on the outside, stuff the wire through the holes into the inner cabin. Inside the cabin insert another piece of Tefzel between the wires and pull down twisting with safety pliers. A helper outside can watch the window seat and stop the person on the safety pliers from exerting too much pressure. The Tefzel outer cover will not mark the window nor stick to the mix. The #30 holes can be easily  filled and painted.

 

Bill DeRouchey

RV-10 N939SB, builder 40029

 


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dlm46007(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:47 pm    Post subject: Windows & Weld-10 Reply with quote

The way to hold the windows/windscreen in place while curing is the "bent aluminum fingers method". create 30-40 aluminum fingers about 1" x 3" out of .062 or .080 material . Bend each finger slightly at the center. drill a #30 hole at one end and tape generously the other end. These finger can be clecoed around the window so that the padded end holds the window to the frame flange and the other end is clecoed into the lid. Be sure and number them when fitting them and reinstall at the same location during the final window install. leave in place until cured. Fill lid holes with an epoxy/glass fiber  cabosil mixture.
 
 
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KiloPapa



Joined: 24 May 2006
Posts: 142
Location: Pearblossom, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 3:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Windows & Weld-10 Reply with quote

Thanks for the information. I appreciate you sharing your experience. That step is still in my future.

Kevin
#40494

do not archive


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