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Silicone wire

 
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rparigor(at)SUFFOLK.LIB.N
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 1:00 pm    Post subject: Silicone wire Reply with quote

Hello Bob

"I'm not familiar with "model electrics". I'm also curious as to popular
use of silicone insulation"

Model Electric Airplanes are getting much popular (as well as Helis and
Boats), especial with new battery technology.

Charging and switching about of battery packs, causes much flexing
demands. Weight is critical, and the gazillion strands helps out not only
on flexibility, but minimal weight for ability to carry amps. On models
you often cheat on size of wire to save weight, and that can heat things
up. Silicone insulation is very flexible and pretty good at high
temperatures. In the quantities I buy, it is not cheap.

Astroflight, Hobby Lobby and many others sell it.

One of my favorite connectors, Sermos or Anderson Powerpole Modular
connectors work awful well with Model Electrics. The 15 amp, 30 amp and 45
amp size is the same size, just the pins are different. I would much
rather parallel 2 connectors than rely on 1. If things are perfect you can
use a 30 amp for 30 amps. That said I do find from time to time signs of
high resistance joints. Using 2 parallel 15s, never had a problem.

They are going to be used in numerous locations on my Europa.

Check out:
http://www.yourzagi.com/wagmax.htm

Go to fourth picture down, it shows parallel silicone wire and connectors.
You can position the modular connectors so they are keyed so can not make
a mistake. Can easily stack a dozen or more in a row or cube.

www.mcmaster sells them. 2 parallel work great for Cessna landing lights
in cowl, easy removal and install, even when real cold out.

I will use them for connectors for allowing electron to my wings, which
will be removed a fair amount.

Off topic, but in that same picture #4, you will see black size E Dacron
thread holding on my 3/4HP motor! This technique is unbelievable. Use a
little JB Weld fast cure to get position you want, then use thin CA (Crazy
type glue like Zap)to hold thread in place. A quick slice and tap and
motor is off. Way off subject, buy some keen edge razor blades from
McMaster Carr, they are black and super sharp. Break em with pliers for
small on the spot scalpel.

Same photo you can see the 2 Carbon Fiber rods, they are green. I go to an
indoor Archery range, and garbage pick CF arrows that hit the cement wall,
or the knocks get "Knocked" forward a few inches. Since most of these are
unidirectional wrapped, they are not great in some directions as far as
strength. I internal custom sleeve where more strength is desired, and
then wrap the exterior with Spectra Fishing line and thin CA. If you have
not played with this stuff, do so. Strong like steel, glues easily with
thin CA, not good for high temperatures. Another appeal for holding
batteries, is the spectra is not a good conductor. CF conducts better than
you care for in many electrical instances. Spectra is pretty abrasion
resistant. Anyway CF and Spectra wrap, and Size E Dacron are all making
its way into Europa.

Also McMaster check out Kevlar and Nomex thread.

For much of my wires, and fuel lines instead of traditional nylon ty wraps
on stand offs, I took a piece of Balsa Wood square 2 inches by 1 inch and
laid up 1 ply BID. Then I sewed with Kevlar thread using a Zig Zag stitch
Velcro to the 2 x 1. Then wrapped with thin .020 safety wire, and laid up
1 layer BID on bottom. Now just need to Redux this anywhere you need a
hold-down. On my fuel lines going through the tunnel I put a piece of
Velcro on the lines themselves.

Ron Parigoris


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