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Balancing Connecting Rods

 
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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2006 4:44 am    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

I made a search in the archives and couldn't find anything on this subject.

Is is safe to remove metal from a Lycoming rod to match up a set of 4? The
worst one is 9 grams heavier on the big end. That is quite a volume of
metal, and the rods don't look like they have that much to spare. One option is
to do it on the crank. Is it safe to remove metal from the crank.

I'm concerned about the nitride coating layer, mostly. Is there any advice
that anyone can give me about what to do or not do.

The engine is an IO-360-A1A. The rods are LW10646.

Thanks, Dan Hopper RV-7A Flying 144 hours


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archie97(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2006 5:36 am    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

If you attend Oshkosh, I conduct seminars on engine balancing.
Briefly, Aircraft manufacturers balance rods in total weight.
While this is satisfactory, for horizontally opposed engines,
an improvement is to separate Reciprocating from Rotating weights.
9 Grams is doable with care and stress knowledge.
On Lyc rods, there is an area by the rod bolt that is unfinished.
This area can be taken down and polished.
Do not use a grinding wheel. Metal must be removed with a high speed
belt sander so as not to allow the rod to overheat. If this happens, the
bore will distort.
Prior to starting, you may want to check the bore accuracy. Most aircraft
shops merely
replace the pin bushings and rod bolts. I have found that most rod bores
are "not on the money", but people use them as is anyhow. (no comment on
that)

Same with crank balancing. For the most part, they are not usually too bad.
Grinding and polishing is my preference. The factory balancing is with a
fairly
coarse finish.
Also, do not forget the starter gear. It becomes part of the crank
rotational force
when attached. (as do the bolts).
Archie

Quote:


I made a search in the archives and couldn't find anything on this
subject.

Is is safe to remove metal from a Lycoming rod to match up a set of 4?
The
worst one is 9 grams heavier on the big end. That is quite a volume of
metal, and the rods don't look like they have that much to spare. One
option is
to do it on the crank. Is it safe to remove metal from the crank.

I'm concerned about the nitride coating layer, mostly. Is there any
advice
that anyone can give me about what to do or not do.

The engine is an IO-360-A1A. The rods are LW10646.

Thanks, Dan Hopper RV-7A Flying 144 hours


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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2006 4:52 pm    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

Archie,

Thanks for your reply. I understand about the whole rod vs. big end and
small end weights. The rods are actually at a local shop which specializes in
race car engines. I think they are pretty knowledgeable, but not experienced
in Lycomings. Could you be a little more specific about where to remove
metal. The rods have quite a lot of metal already removed along side the bolts.
I say that because it looks like rough machining there. There is an area
near the nut on the rod proper (not the cap) with some to spare possibly. Or
are you talking about on the cap? Knowing what 9 grams of steel looks like,
I am worried about trying to take that much off.

I will attend your seminar at OSH this summer, but that will be too late for
this job. I have attended a balancing seminar already, there. But, they
were just trying to sell prop "dynamic" balancing equipment. Don't get me
wrong. I am a believer in doing a final balance job on the prop end of the
engine, but I think it is a good idea to match up the internal parts first. The
pistons were within a few tenths of a gram, and the crank was also very good.
But the rods were by far the worst. If there is not enough "meat" on the
rods, how do you feel about taking some off the crank? I know that its like
two wrongs making a right, but its all rotating weight, so theoretically it
should be in balance.

Thanks again,

Dan Hopper RV-7A


In a message dated 3/4/2006 8:37:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
archie97(at)earthlink.net writes:
If you attend Oshkosh, I conduct seminars on engine balancing.
Briefly, Aircraft manufacturers balance rods in total weight.
While this is satisfactory, for horizontally opposed engines,
an improvement is to separate Reciprocating from Rotating weights.
9 Grams is doable with care and stress knowledge.
On Lyc rods, there is an area by the rod bolt that is unfinished.
This area can be taken down and polished.


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grosseair(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2006 6:00 pm    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

Why don't you try swapping rods with someone if that's a possibility. Or
do you have access to a shop with inventory that might let you had pick
a new rod to replace the 9 g heavy one you have?

John Grosse

Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:

Quote:



Archie,

Thanks for your reply. I understand about the whole rod vs. big end and
small end weights. The rods are actually at a local shop which specializes in
race car engines. I think they are pretty knowledgeable, but not experienced
in Lycomings. Could you be a little more specific about where to remove
metal. The rods have quite a lot of metal already removed along side the bolts.
I say that because it looks like rough machining there. There is an area
near the nut on the rod proper (not the cap) with some to spare possibly. Or
are you talking about on the cap? Knowing what 9 grams of steel looks like,
I am worried about trying to take that much off.

I will attend your seminar at OSH this summer, but that will be too late for
this job. I have attended a balancing seminar already, there. But, they
were just trying to sell prop "dynamic" balancing equipment. Don't get me
wrong. I am a believer in doing a final balance job on the prop end of the
engine, but I think it is a good idea to match up the internal parts first. The
pistons were within a few tenths of a gram, and the crank was also very good.
But the rods were by far the worst. If there is not enough "meat" on the
rods, how do you feel about taking some off the crank? I know that its like
two wrongs making a right, but its all rotating weight, so theoretically it
should be in balance.

Thanks again,

Dan Hopper RV-7A


In a message dated 3/4/2006 8:37:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
archie97(at)earthlink.net writes:
If you attend Oshkosh, I conduct seminars on engine balancing.
Briefly, Aircraft manufacturers balance rods in total weight.
While this is satisfactory, for horizontally opposed engines,
an improvement is to separate Reciprocating from Rotating weights.
9 Grams is doable with care and stress knowledge.
On Lyc rods, there is an area by the rod bolt that is unfinished.
This area can be taken down and polished.










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archie97(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2006 6:59 pm    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

The area on the main rod just above the nuts is unfinished on the factory
rods.
The obvious forging mark is there, and can be taken down maintaining the
same arc curve. This area is usually good for about five grams.
I cannot go into details here, but will tell you not to try and remove too
much
from any given area.
In certain instances, have turned a couple of grams off on a lathe.(nuff
said here).
Do not remove any metal from the periphery of the bolt holes.
(Superior rods are completely finished.)

Do not try to correct a rod weight by working the crank.
Adding bob weights is not the answer.
It is either right or wrong. If necessary, and you are not comfortable
with rod correction, either obtain closer rods, leave it alone, or just
use total rod weight..
There is much more to machinery dynamics than wheel balancing,
and not worth the risk of part failure if not experienced in this area.
Archie
Quote:
Archie,

Thanks for your reply. I understand about the whole rod vs. big end and
small end weights. The rods are actually at a local shop which
specializes in
race car engines. I think they are pretty knowledgeable, but not
experienced
in Lycomings. Could you be a little more specific about where to remove
metal. The rods have quite a lot of metal already removed along side the
bolts.
I say that because it looks like rough machining there. There is an area
near the nut on the rod proper (not the cap) with some to spare possibly.
Or
are you talking about on the cap? Knowing what 9 grams of steel looks
like,
I am worried about trying to take that much off.

I will attend your seminar at OSH this summer, but that will be too late
for
this job. I have attended a balancing seminar already, there. But,
they
were just trying to sell prop "dynamic" balancing equipment. Don't get
me
wrong. I am a believer in doing a final balance job on the prop end of
the
engine, but I think it is a good idea to match up the internal parts
first. The
pistons were within a few tenths of a gram, and the crank was also very
good.
But the rods were by far the worst. If there is not enough "meat" on the
rods, how do you feel about taking some off the crank? I know that its
like
two wrongs making a right, but its all rotating weight, so theoretically
it
should be in balance.

Thanks again,

Dan Hopper RV-7A
In a message dated 3/4/2006 8:37:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
archie97(at)earthlink.net writes:
If you attend Oshkosh, I conduct seminars on engine balancing.
Briefly, Aircraft manufacturers balance rods in total weight.
While this is satisfactory, for horizontally opposed engines,
an improvement is to separate Reciprocating from Rotating weights.
9 Grams is doable with care and stress knowledge.
On Lyc rods, there is an area by the rod bolt that is unfinished.
This area can be taken down and polished.




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redswing(at)mcn.org
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 7:30 pm    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

---

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:00 am    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

In a message dated 3/5/2006 10:31:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
redswing(at)mcn.org writes:

Prior to starting, you may want to check the bore accuracy.
This is a great suggestion. Aircraft rods are sometimes returned to service
in unserviceable condition because many of the shops do not edven check the
big end bores. If your heavy rod(s) also need to have the big end bore
resized, that could fix both problems at the same time.
Red Hamilton

I almost missed this comment embedded in Archie's text. That is a great
suggestion, Red. I'll bring it up as a possibility with the shop doing the
balancing. Also, see my other post on why it may not even be necessary to
balance the big ends.

Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A Flying since July 2004 -- Building up another engine for a spare, or
something!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:00 am    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

Archie,

I have been giving this balancing problem a lot of thought. I am used to
thinking race car engines -- V8s with a 4 plane crank. In that case it is of
course necessary to match up all the rods and counterweight the crank while
balancing it. It occurs to me that if all the unbalance (imbalance?) is in a
single plane -- say the small ends of the rods match but the big ends don't,
then a 4 cylinder engine CAN be brought into balance by just adding weight at
the front end. That is, that balancing the prop does correct for imbalance
even at the back of the shaft. Therefore it is not necessary to balance the
big ends of the rods if you do a dynamic balance of the prop after the engine
is installed on the airplane.

What do you think?

Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying -- working on another engine


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 5:22 am    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

Archie and listers,

Sorry to reply to my own post! Please disregard the attached earlier post.
I didn't have my brain fully engaged yet this morning!

Even when balancing a wheel (with width), you have to be able to get to both
ends in order to bring it into dynamic balance. A crankshaft is no
different in this regard. So therefore it is important to match up all the rod big
ends.

Dan


In a message dated 3/6/2006 7:02:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:



Archie,

I have been giving this balancing problem a lot of thought. I am used to
thinking race car engines -- V8s with a 4 plane crank. In that case it is
of
course necessary to match up all the rods and counterweight the crank while
balancing it. It occurs to me that if all the unbalance (imbalance?) is in
a
single plane -- say the small ends of the rods match but the big ends
don't,
then a 4 cylinder engine CAN be brought into balance by just adding weight
at
the front end. That is, that balancing the prop does correct for imbalance

even at the back of the shaft. Therefore it is not necessary to balance
the
big ends of the rods if you do a dynamic balance of the prop after the
engine
is installed on the airplane.

What do you think?

Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying -- working on another engine


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archie97(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 6:06 am    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

On V-8 engines, the total weight of the rotating end is incorporated
in the formula for bob weight setup, and only 50% of reciprocating weight.
(which also includes, Piston, Pin, and Rings.
This basic formula can be modified for over or under balance,
but is beyond the scope of conversation here.
When a crankshaft is being corrected, it is not only balanced rotationally,
but also end to end. AKA "COUPLE".
BTW, most of my work is in racing engines.
Archie


Quote:


Archie,

I have been giving this balancing problem a lot of thought. I am used to
thinking race car engines -- V8s with a 4 plane crank. In that case it
is of
course necessary to match up all the rods and counterweight the crank
while
balancing it. It occurs to me that if all the unbalance (imbalance?) is
in a
single plane -- say the small ends of the rods match but the big ends
don't,
then a 4 cylinder engine CAN be brought into balance by just adding
weight at
the front end. That is, that balancing the prop does correct for
imbalance
even at the back of the shaft. Therefore it is not necessary to balance
the
big ends of the rods if you do a dynamic balance of the prop after the
engine
is installed on the airplane.

What do you think?

Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying -- working on another engine






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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 11:21 am    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

Archie,

You're preaching to the choir here! I have built quite a few V8 race
engines in my day. My racing days are over, though. I have made engine balance a
hobby and have studied it quite a bit. I once decided to become an expert on
vibration and balancing, but found that it was a much more complicated field
than I had imagined. Fortunately, most engine work we do does not require
exact knowledge, and the 100 percent rotating and 50 percent reciprocating
formula is as close as we need to be. Well, again that was back in my day.
That was the late 60's and early 70's. I don't know about the latest engines.
I built many engines that way back then. Yes, I understand that symmetrical
cranks like 4 cyl and 6 cyl don't need bob weights during balancing.

I called Aircraft Specialties Service this morning, and I think that they
are going to work with me on getting a closer set of rods than I have now.

Thanks again for the advice,

do not archive

Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Walton IN



In a message dated 3/6/2006 9:07:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
archie97(at)earthlink.net writes:



On V-8 engines, the total weight of the rotating end is incorporated
in the formula for bob weight setup, and only 50% of reciprocating weight.
(which also includes, Piston, Pin, and Rings.
This basic formula can be modified for over or under balance,
but is beyond the scope of conversation here.
When a crankshaft is being corrected, it is not only balanced rotationally,
but also end to end. AKA "COUPLE".
BTW, most of my work is in racing engines.
Archie


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redswing(at)mcn.org
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 6:40 pm    Post subject: Balancing Connecting Rods Reply with quote

Sorry, I had it in a contrasting color--that got stripped.
Red
---


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