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Rotax 582 Start Current

 
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Guy Buchanan



Joined: 16 Jul 2006
Posts: 1204
Location: Ramona, CA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:04 am    Post subject: Rotax 582 Start Current Reply with quote

The short question is: What is the approximate start current for a Rotax 582?

Why do I ask? Because today I fried the shunt on my 30A ammeter. This
shunt operates in line between the battery and starter.

I've noticed lately that starting has been slower and I attributed it
to lower battery capacity. Today I checked the voltage at 13.1V, then
tried starting. I got three very slow turn-overs followed by a click,
then nothing. It turns out the click was the shunt separating. I've
got probably 100 starts on this system over the last year. I did a
resistance check of the starter across the "big" wires and got only
0.3 ohms. Is it possible the starter is shorted? How can I tell if
the starter is bad? Do I dare simply attach the battery to the
starter directly to see if it works? I could also simply by-pass the
shunt to see if it works, then I could use the start switch. I'm
concerned, however, that if the starter is shorted I could blow the
battery. Is that a possibility?

Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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Guy Buchanan
Deceased K-IV 1200
A glider pilot too.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 1:04 pm    Post subject: Rotax 582 Start Current Reply with quote

Guy,

The wire to the starter motor should not go through the shunt, the load for everything else goes through the shunt.( ignition,lights,radios,flap motors,trim motors, etc.)
I am surprised that you were able to get any starts at all without blowing the shunt. If you want more info on wiring, go to the aeroelectric.com website.

Bob Spudis
N701ZX/CH-701/912uls



In a message dated 2/8/2007 2:06:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, bnn(at)nethere.com writes:
Quote:
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com>

The short question is: What is the approximate start current for a Rotax 582?

Why do I ask? Because today I fried the shunt on my 30A ammeter. This
shunt operates in line between the battery and starter.

I've noticed lately that starting has been slower and I attributed it
to lower battery capacity. Today I checked the voltage at 13.1V, then
tried starting. I got three very slow turn-overs followed by a click,
then nothing. It turns out the click was the shunt separating. I've
got probably 100 starts on this system over the last year. I did a
resistance check of the starter across the "big" wires and got only
0.3 ohms. Is it possible the starter is shorted? How can I tell if
the starter is bad? Do I dare simply attach the battery to the
starter directly to see if it works? I could also simply by-pass the
shunt to see if it works, then I could use the start switch. I'm
concerned, however, that if the starter is shorted I could blow the
battery. Is that a possibility?

Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. = Use lities Day --> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
bsp; --> ======================




[quote][b]


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