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a couple of specific wiring questions

 
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sportav8r(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 6:50 pm    Post subject: a couple of specific wiring questions Reply with quote

First, I want to make sure I'm okay using a D-sub connector to carry
flap motor loads in an RV. I think 16 AWG is recommended for the
motor wiring; will a single D-sub pin carry the current, or should I
double-up on pins?

Second, there is a wide range of recommendations and practice
regarding the B-lead wiring for the SD-8 alternator. The Z 13/8
diagram shows 12 AWG for this run; the documents from B&C show 14 AWG,
yet the wire they supply (potted into the regulator) is 16 AWG.
Given that these critters can only do about 10A flat-out, are we
sizing for voltage drop concerns here? It's not just academic: I can
fuselink-protect a 16 AWG wire, maybe even a 14 AAWG one, but above
that it means buying ANL's. Besides, there's the 2-gram weight
difference to obsess over Wink

-Bill B


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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 10:21 am    Post subject: a couple of specific wiring questions Reply with quote

At 09:26 AM 1/20/2007 -0500, you wrote:

Quote:


First, I want to make sure I'm okay using a D-sub connector to carry
flap motor loads in an RV. I think 16 AWG is recommended for the
motor wiring; will a single D-sub pin carry the current, or should I
double-up on pins?

How much current does the motor draw worst case? D-sub pins
are RATED at 5A in low density loads. For longevity in aircraft
environments I de-rate the pins to 3A.

You CAN parallel pins for higher current conductors if you
pay careful attention to the physics. The problem to be
solved is making paralleled pins in a connector SHARE
the total load. When mated resistance of the pin is say
5 +/- 2 milliohms, then there is a small but non-zero
statistical probability for direct paralleling pins as
low as 3 milliohms and as high as 7 milliohms.

Here's a technique I developed for adding "ballasting
resistance" to each pin . . .

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/Paralleled_DSub_Pins.pdf

This was designed into and qualified on the following
product:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/GQM_Power_Dist.jpg

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/GQM_1st_Ops_Flight.jpg

Now, I've discussed a way to make your system live
long and prosper using a d-sub connector . . . but why
a d-sub? I needed the d-sub in the design cited above
for compactness, convenience of dropping a connector
right onto an ECB combined with a need to run lots
of wires on and off the board with currents ranging
from 22A down to microamps.

Are you sure something like a

http://preview.tinyurl.com/2ccop5

Isn't more appropriate to your task? Just a suggestion.
The d-sub will perform just fine within the limits
driven by the physics described above.

Quote:
Second, there is a wide range of recommendations and practice
regarding the B-lead wiring for the SD-8 alternator. The Z 13/8
diagram shows 12 AWG for this run; the documents from B&C show 14 AWG,
yet the wire they supply (potted into the regulator) is 16 AWG.
Given that these critters can only do about 10A flat-out, are we
sizing for voltage drop concerns here? It's not just academic: I can
fuselink-protect a 16 AWG wire, maybe even a 14 AAWG one, but above
that it means buying ANL's. Besides, there's the 2-gram weight
difference to obsess over Wink

The Z-Figures are architecture drawings and not intended
to be the final word on sizes for anything. Some SD-8's were
installed on the ass-end of a LongEz and drove electronics
and batteries at the head-end. Fatter than usual wires
were used to improve on regulator performance. As you've
noted, the alternator's output is rated at 10A max so as
long as logistics and special performance issues are not
a consideration 16AWG wire and 15A fusing would be most
adequate. Don't get bogged down in ANY variabilities between
the various Z-figures. EACH system needs to be evaluated
for wire and fuse sizing based on the physics of YOUR
proposed installation.

Bob . . .


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sportav8r(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:16 pm    Post subject: a couple of specific wiring questions Reply with quote

Thanks most kindly.

Since I have a short run from the dynamo to the bus, I won't bother
with the 12 AWG concept. Even 14 AWG seems a tad heavy for the
proposed 8 amp service, and the wiring will never see much use unless
the main alternator fails or goes OV (IR).

As for the flap harness connector, I had already leaned towards the
Molex and that is clearly the way to go, without always wondering if I
should have derated those pins and ballasted the wires.

-Bill

On 1/23/07, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> wrote:
Quote:


At 09:26 AM 1/20/2007 -0500, you wrote:

>
>
>First, I want to make sure I'm okay using a D-sub connector to carry
>flap motor loads in an RV. I think 16 AWG is recommended for the
>motor wiring; will a single D-sub pin carry the current, or should I
>double-up on pins?

How much current does the motor draw worst case? D-sub pins
are RATED at 5A in low density loads. For longevity in aircraft
environments I de-rate the pins to 3A.

You CAN parallel pins for higher current conductors if you
pay careful attention to the physics. The problem to be
solved is making paralleled pins in a connector SHARE
the total load. When mated resistance of the pin is say
5 +/- 2 milliohms, then there is a small but non-zero
statistical probability for direct paralleling pins as
low as 3 milliohms and as high as 7 milliohms.

Here's a technique I developed for adding "ballasting
resistance" to each pin . . .

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/Paralleled_DSub_Pins.pdf

This was designed into and qualified on the following
product:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/GQM_Power_Dist.jpg

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/GQM_1st_Ops_Flight.jpg

Now, I've discussed a way to make your system live
long and prosper using a d-sub connector . . . but why
a d-sub? I needed the d-sub in the design cited above
for compactness, convenience of dropping a connector
right onto an ECB combined with a need to run lots
of wires on and off the board with currents ranging
from 22A down to microamps.

Are you sure something like a

http://preview.tinyurl.com/2ccop5

Isn't more appropriate to your task? Just a suggestion.
The d-sub will perform just fine within the limits
driven by the physics described above.

>Second, there is a wide range of recommendations and practice
>regarding the B-lead wiring for the SD-8 alternator. The Z 13/8
>diagram shows 12 AWG for this run; the documents from B&C show 14 AWG,
>yet the wire they supply (potted into the regulator) is 16 AWG.
>Given that these critters can only do about 10A flat-out, are we
>sizing for voltage drop concerns here? It's not just academic: I can
>fuselink-protect a 16 AWG wire, maybe even a 14 AAWG one, but above
>that it means buying ANL's. Besides, there's the 2-gram weight
>difference to obsess over Wink

The Z-Figures are architecture drawings and not intended
to be the final word on sizes for anything. Some SD-8's were
installed on the ass-end of a LongEz and drove electronics
and batteries at the head-end. Fatter than usual wires
were used to improve on regulator performance. As you've
noted, the alternator's output is rated at 10A max so as
long as logistics and special performance issues are not
a consideration 16AWG wire and 15A fusing would be most
adequate. Don't get bogged down in ANY variabilities between
the various Z-figures. EACH system needs to be evaluated
for wire and fuse sizing based on the physics of YOUR
proposed installation.

Bob . . .


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