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Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls

 
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pelletie1959(at)me.com
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 2:58 pm    Post subject: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls Reply with quote

Hi Bob,

I'm in process to install a Rotax 912 in my airplane. Previously I had a subaru EA81 and I had completed my electrical installation per your diagram with the double ignition. I figure an installation with 2 batteries, no alternator, a ducatti regulator. My airplane is equiped for night flight (nav lights, icom A200, intercom, transponder At 50). I use mechanical engine and flight instruments.)

My question: what is the better schema to switch my electrical installation?

Daniel
Envoyé de mon iPad


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user9253



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 1375
Location: Riley TWP Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls Reply with quote

By "No Alternator", I assume that you mean no external alternator. But your engine does have an internal dynamo, correct?
Do you have Bob Nuckolls' book? Download it at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Book/AEC_R12A.pdf
Individual schematics can be downloaded at http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/
Z-16 would be a good starting point. I would use a 30 amp fuse instead of a dynamo fuselink.
What kind of airplane is it?
Post your intended wiring diagram to get suggestions from others.


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gilles.thesee(at)free.fr
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 5:38 pm    Post subject: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls Reply with quote

Le 01/01/2019 à 01:52, user9253 a écrit :
Quote:


By "No Alternator", I assume that you mean no external alternator. But your engine does have an internal dynamo, correct?
Do you have Bob Nuckolls' book? Download it at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Book/AEC_R12A.pdf
Individual schematics can be downloaded at http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/
Z-16 would be a good starting point. I would use a 30 amp fuse instead of a dynamo fuselink.

Daniel,

I'll second Joe's answer.
If your engine is a 912, it doesn't require a second battery and Z16 is
adequate.
But your mention of two batteries rings a bell. Do you rather mean the
more recent fuel injected, electrically dependent, 912 iS ?
Then it is another kettle of fish and you'll need several separate switches.

Season's greetings
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr


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pelletie1959(at)me.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2019 10:51 am    Post subject: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls Reply with quote

You're right, I have the internal dynamo, but I saw that someone installed an external alternator. My aircraft is a zenair Ch 601 hds.

Thanks for the info, I check that.

Daniel

Envoyé de mon iPad

Quote:
Le 31 déc. 2018 à 19:52, user9253 <fransew(at)gmail.com> a écrit :



By "No Alternator", I assume that you mean no external alternator. But your engine does have an internal dynamo, correct?
Do you have Bob Nuckolls' book? Download it at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Book/AEC_R12A.pdf
Individual schematics can be downloaded at http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/
Z-16 would be a good starting point. I would use a 30 amp fuse instead of a dynamo fuselink.
What kind of airplane is it?
Post your intended wiring diagram to get suggestions from others.

--------
Joe Gores




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486628#486628











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pelletie1959(at)me.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2019 11:11 am    Post subject: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls Reply with quote

No, it's an old edition 912 UL.

Thanks.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Quote:
Le 31 déc. 2018 à 20:37, GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> a écrit :



> Le 01/01/2019 à 01:52, user9253 a écrit :
>
>
> By "No Alternator", I assume that you mean no external alternator. But your engine does have an internal dynamo, correct?
> Do you have Bob Nuckolls' book? Download it at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Book/AEC_R12A.pdf
> Individual schematics can be downloaded at http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/
> Z-16 would be a good starting point. I would use a 30 amp fuse instead of a dynamo fuselink.

Daniel,

I'll second Joe's answer.
If your engine is a 912, it doesn't require a second battery and Z16 is adequate.
But your mention of two batteries rings a bell. Do you rather mean the more recent fuel injected, electrically dependent, 912 iS ?
Then it is another kettle of fish and you'll need several separate switches.

Season's greetings
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr






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user9253



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 1375
Location: Riley TWP Michigan

PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2019 10:20 am    Post subject: Re: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls Reply with quote

Use heat conductive paste between the metal base of the Ducatti regulator and the airframe. Cool the fins with forced air.

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pelletie1959(at)me.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2019 2:10 pm    Post subject: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls Reply with quote

Thanks Joe. You have a suggestion for the heat conductive paste?

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Quote:
Le 2 janv. 2019 à 13:20, user9253 <fransew(at)gmail.com> a écrit :



Use heat conductive paste between the metal base of the Ducatti regulator and the airframe. Cool the fins with forced air.

--------
Joe Gores




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486659#486659











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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2019 2:48 pm    Post subject: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls Reply with quote

At 04:08 PM 1/2/2019, you wrote:
Quote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DANIEL PELLETIER <pelletie1959(at)me.com>

Thanks Joe. You have a suggestion for the heat conductive paste?

As I recall, the legacy 912 Ducatti regulators
had epoxy-fill bases . . . VERY low thermal
conductivity. Not much opportunity to suck
more heat out of that side. However, a 12v
computer fan blowing on the top fins would
make a HUGE difference.




Bob . . .


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user9253



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 1375
Location: Riley TWP Michigan

PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2019 4:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine switch for a rotax 912 uls Reply with quote

Yes, the Ducatti Regulator bottom is mostly a non-heat conductive material.
But there is an aluminum perimeter about 5 mm wide that can be coated with
heat conductive paste. Some people use Zinc oxide that they buy at drug
stores. Others use heat conductive paste from computer stores or from home
improvement stores. Rotax spark plugs are supposed to be installed with heat
conductive paste. That same product can be used under the regulator.


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