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Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable

 
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art(at)zemon.name
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 6:27 am    Post subject: Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable Reply with quote

Folks,
I was planning on soldering my alternator cable lugs (4 AWG and 6 AWG cable) per http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
Then I remembered that I have a cable swaging tool, which I used for my rudder cables. 
[img]cid:ii_jgthd69j0_16330b1661782217[/img]​

Would this tool make acceptable crimps for my cables?
    -- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel


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stinsonwagon(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 7:53 am    Post subject: Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable Reply with quote

You could use one of these
Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool

<![endif]--> <![endif]-->
<![endif]--> Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool Restricted circuits can cause wire failure, melting or even a fire. Crimp wires and butt connectors properly wit...

If you cant borrow one wait for a 25% of coupon.
Good luck
From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 5, 2018 7:42 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable


Folks,
I was planning on soldering my alternator cable lugs (4 AWG and 6 AWG cable) per http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
Then I remembered that I have a cable swaging tool, which I used for my rudder cables.
[img]cid:ii_jgthd69j0_16330b1661782217[/img]​

Would this tool make acceptable crimps for my cables?
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel


- The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
 

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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 12:43 pm    Post subject: Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable Reply with quote

On Sat, May 5, 2018 at 9:25 AM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
Quote:
Folks,
I was planning on soldering my alternator cable lugs (4 AWG and 6 AWG cable) per http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
Then I remembered that I have a cable swaging tool, which I used for my rudder cables. 


Would this tool make acceptable crimps for my cables?
    -- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel


I'd lean toward solder, since there's no assurance that the die will apply the right level of compression (It's made for the figure-8 shape of cable swages). 
Do you have access to a hydraulic press? I crimped some #4 cables using a big Crescent wrench adjusted to just larger than the barrel diameter, and a piece of steel the same thickness as the barrel. Barrel between the jaws of the wrench, steel on edge above the barrel, and used the press ram to crimp it.  
I need to put some lugs on some #4 direct-burial aluminum 'quad-plex' cable for a house/hangar project, and I'm thinking about just using my rivet squeezer for that (the cable is already in the ground; hard to get the press up the hill to the ends). 
For the price, this tool is tempting, though:
https://jet.com/product/detail/044de210e0e54490b3104f2933a8c4e9?jcmp=pla:ggl:nj_roc_gen_tools_home_improvement_a2:tools_home_improvement_power_hand_tools_strippers_crimpers_a2:na:PLA_1062736267_53681764978_pla-575440131752_c:na:na:na:2PLA15&pid=kenshoo_int&c=1062736267&is_retargeting=true&clickid=9b0fea02-66eb-4b09-a0d8-66d818f2a6db&kclid=9b0fea02-66eb-4b09-a0d8-66d818f2a6db&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrLXXBRCXARIsAIttmRMz6bd20WicKga0R-gwf9V31rSnEMlvZaDPr9oFZflf-2UX0q9m0JgaAsNREALw_wcB

Looks like it came from the same factory as the Harbor freight tool they sell for $55.
Charlie


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gfarek(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 1:18 pm    Post subject: Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable Reply with quote

HarborFreight has the same crimper.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 5, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
Quote:


On Sat, May 5, 2018 at 9:25 AM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
Quote:
Folks,
I was planning on soldering my alternator cable lugs (4 AWG and 6 AWG cable) per http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
Then I remembered that I have a cable swaging tool, which I used for my rudder cables.


Would this tool make acceptable crimps for my cables?
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel


I'd lean toward solder, since there's no assurance that the die will apply the right level of compression (It's made for the figure-8 shape of cable swages).
Do you have access to a hydraulic press? I crimped some #4 cables using a big Crescent wrench adjusted to just larger than the barrel diameter, and a piece of steel the same thickness as the barrel. Barrel between the jaws of the wrench, steel on edge above the barrel, and used the press ram to crimp it.
I need to put some lugs on some #4 direct-burial aluminum 'quad-plex' cable for a house/hangar project, and I'm thinking about just using my rivet squeezer for that (the cable is already in the ground; hard to get the press up the hill to the ends).
For the price, this tool is tempting, though:
https://jet.com/product/detail/044de210e0e54490b3104f2933a8c4e9?jcmp=pla:ggl:nj_roc_gen_tools_home_improvement_a2:tools_home_improvement_power_hand_tools_strippers_crimpers_a2:na:PLA_1062736267_53681764978_pla-575440131752_c:na:na:na:2PLA15&pid=kenshoo_int&c=1062736267&is_retargeting=true&clickid=9b0fea02-66eb-4b09-a0d8-66d818f2a6db&kclid=9b0fea02-66eb-4b09-a0d8-66d818f2a6db&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrLXXBRCXARIsAIttmRMz6bd20WicKga0R-gwf9V31rSnEMlvZaDPr9oFZflf-2UX0q9m0JgaAsNREALw_wcB

Looks like it came from the same factory as the Harbor freight tool they sell for $55.
Charlie





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BARRY CHECK 6



Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 698

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 5:19 pm    Post subject: Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable Reply with quote

Art:
There are TRICKS in soldering cables for such things as the Battery & Alternator.
They are NOT difficult but the procedure is NOT just to solder and get a total covered flow as you would when doing say a binding post or a Western Union Splice.
Many will argue that you should NOT solder ANY type or SIZE terminal end.
Not - True...  There are Tricks!!!
99.673% of us would never solder a terminal lug under say a 10 AWG.
But soldering larger terminals work GREAT to make both a Physical bond and an Electrical bond.
OK, so here are the tricks:
1 - The Lug must be the proper size for the wire you are using.
2 - Make sure the Lug and the Wire are CLEAN.
3 - If you are using a stranded wire as opposed to a braided wire <--  Some welding wires are braided.
Twist the wire end to tighten the bond between strands.  Twist them in the same direction as the wire under the insulation.
4 - Art, I'm lucky as I never had to use crimp tool that was not hydraulic.  So I will not comment on how well your proposed tool will work. I will say:  The snugger the fit between the wire and the lug the better the crimp.
5 - I use Silver Solder.  Silver Solder is STRONGER then Tin/Lead solder.  
O!  NEVER use Lead Free Solder!  It ain't worth the gunpowder to blow it to hell!  
[Side Note:  Military contracts specifically state Tin/Lead Solder. 63/37 Eutectic Solder.]   Silver Solder has a better conductivity than Tin/Led solder.  AND...  There are different types of Silver Solder.  You want to use Silver Bearing Solder - I use 5% Silver.  Stronger and Better Conductivity.
6 - At this point I have to try to dispel some Old Wive's Tails:
a>  Soldering a Lug will cause corrosion.
Of course it will if you do not clean off the Flux.
b> Soldering a Lug will crystallize the wire.
Of course it will if you use a Oxy-Acetylene torch.  
7 - The Soldering Trick - As I stated before: DO NOT SOLDER THE ENTIRE LUG!
That is VERY TRUE!  And the reason for NOT soldering the entire lug is:  
It creates what is know as a Hard Point.
No!  Not like Hard Points on the F-16.
A Hard Point is a Point where there is NO flexibility.  
Why do you think our small wires work so well and last so long.  Flexibility!
When you step up to a Heavier Cable and lock it into a Non-Flexible condition, Right At the solid mounted point of the Lug and then vibration moves the cable, the weak point is right where the flexible cable enters the un-flexible lug.
So - What do you solder?  After crimping, you solder the Ring End of the lug.  Just as wire comes out of the lug. 
You do not need much. Unfortunately experience helps here.  You would like the Silver Solder to flow half way down the barrel of the lug and STOP!  There is more than enough physical contact with the crimp itself in forming the connection.  
But, the Silver Solder will:
~ Create the Electrical Bond - Above and well beyond that of the crimp itself.
~ Prevent contamination - Especially at battery terminals. Silver, even dirty is a better conductor than copper.  
Side Note:  YES, you can use FLUX.  And you better!  But, there are three (3) types of flux that can be used:
1 - RA - Rosin Activated
2 - RMA - Rosin Mildly Activated
3 - AC - Acid Core 
Now to scare the bejeebers out of 99.9% of the readers. It does NOT matter which flux you use. 
Wait for it...
Wait for it...
It does Not matter as long as you clean it 100%.  
That is the problem.  The best flux to use on Silver Solder is AC.  But, not many shops use ultrasonics or vapor degreasing in cleaning their wires.  
Cleaning the Flux off.
There are two (2) types of liquid flux.
~ Water Based and 
~ Alcohol based.
Either type can be cleaned with Alcohol.  Isopropyl works great AND you can let the cables and even circuit boards soak in it.  
What is the purpose of flux?  Sorry Wikipedia is incorrect.  It is NOT for mechanical strength. Well, not the way it reads.
It is to prevent oxidation.  Oxidation causes poor electrical and physical bonding.
Next Trick:  Be Careful with open flame.  No, not because you are going to burn the hanger down.  Because it causes Oxidation.  - Use indirect heating. -  Either use a TIP on the end of the torch or heat the lug from the backside, the side away from the wire. If you are using the open flame, keep the flame moving.  You will have to practious.
I can guarantee you 1,000 % if done this way the connection will last at least 22 Years and you will NOT have starting issues.  Well, I can't guarantee the starting issue part, because I do not know the rest of your system.  But, mine has been working for the past 22 Years!  I'm sure yours will too.
Barry


On Sat, May 5, 2018 at 10:25 AM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
Quote:
Folks,
I was planning on soldering my alternator cable lugs (4 AWG and 6 AWG cable) per http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
Then I remembered that I have a cable swaging tool, which I used for my rudder cables. 
[img]cid:ii_jgthd69j0_16330b1661782217[/img]​

Would this tool make acceptable crimps for my cables?
    -- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel





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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 12:02 pm    Post subject: Crimping connectors on AWG 4 and 6 cable Reply with quote

At 08:18 PM 5/5/2018, you wrote:
Quote:
Art:

There are TRICKS in soldering cables for such things as the Battery & Alternator.
They are NOT difficult but the procedure is NOT just to solder and get a total covered flow as you would when doing say a binding post or a Western Union Splice.

Yes there are . . . and here's my personal favorite . . .

https://goo.gl/ty64fC



Bob . . .


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