Matronics Email Lists Forum Index Matronics Email Lists
BBS Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists
 
 Get Email Distribution Too!Get Email Distribution Too!    FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

AeroElectric-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 04/25/18

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> AeroElectric-List
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
buchdvm(at)gmail.com
Guest





PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:37 am    Post subject: AeroElectric-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 04/25/18 Reply with quote

I am going to run Bob's contribution thru the DeGausser to understand it
all😎
I just bought a $40.00 DeGausser to heal my windup Mantel clock

KenB

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 1:30 AM, AeroElectric-List Digest Server <
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com> wrote:

[quote] *

=========================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=========================

Today's complete AeroElectric-List Digest can also be found in either of
the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the AeroElectric-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.

HTML Version:

http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=
82701&View=html&Chapter=2018-04-25&Archive=AeroElectric

Text Version:

http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=
82701&View=txt&Chapter=2018-04-25&Archive=AeroElectric
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
----------------------------------------------------------
AeroElectric-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Wed 04/25/18: 10
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------

1. 01:44 AM - Degaussing (tshort)
2. 02:22 AM - Re: Degaussing (John Cox)
3. 05:52 AM - Re: Degaussing (user9253)
4. 06:35 AM - Re: Degaussing (FLYaDIVE)
5. 06:36 AM - Re: Re: Degaussing (FLYaDIVE)
6. 06:40 AM - Re: Magic stuff . . . (Alec Myers)
7. 06:53 AM - Re: Magic stuff . . . (Kelly McMullen)
8. 12:37 PM - Re: Re: Degaussing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 12:51 PM - Re: Degaussing (David Lloyd)
10. 07:51 PM - Re: Degaussing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)

________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 01:44:57 AM PST US
Subject: Degaussing
From: "tshort" <tmshort(at)gmail.com>
The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference testing,
only
when the rudder moves.

Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.

Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479541#479541
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 02:22:12 AM PST US
From: John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Degaussing

Start with a simple (Free)Android phone app
Such as Gauss Meter by Keuwlsoft. It will help locate or confirm the item
that becomes mangetized.

A degauss process is a coil of wire which creates a demagnetize field when
switched on. They were commonly used by TV techs in the 60s -70s to remove
interference in Cathode Ray color picture tubes back in the day.

John Cox

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 01:50 tshort <tmshort(at)gmail.com> wrote:

>
> The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference testing,
> only when the rudder moves.
>
> Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
>
> Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479541#479541
>
>

________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 05:52:54 AM PST US
Subject: Re: Degaussing
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron). Remove the two screws that
hold the
heating element. Put the heating element around the rudder cable and
reassemble
the soldering gun. Turn on the soldering gun and slowly move it along the
rudder cable, being careful not to burn yourself or anything else.
I have never done this and have never heard about others doing it. But
hey, it
is worth a try.

--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479544#479544
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
Time: 06:35:17 AM PST US
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Degaussing

Hello Shorty:

Very Interesting!
In the good old days it was very easy to make a Degaussing Coil (D-C),
actually the coil was already made for you and all you had to do was hook
up 110 VAC.
The Coil was the DEFLECTION COIL on the back of the old TV's... It is the
large coil that slipped over the shank of the CRT... Cathode Ray Tube.
All that a D-C is, is a very long length of a coil of wire. To the ends of
the coil you apply 110 VAC through a PUSH BUTTON switch. It continuously
reverses the magnetic fields at the rate of 60 times per second (60 Hz).
The coil is then slowly moved in ONE DIRECTION along the length of the item
you wish to demagnetize.

OK, lets prove the cables are magnetized. I doubt it! Why? Because the
cable are made of a low ferrous metal. The cables are advertised as
Stainless Steel (S/S). True, not all S/S is non-magnetic.
Start with a COMPASS - Move the compass along the length of the cables and
of course the STEEL pivot points. The Compass will point directly to the
magnetized item.

Sounds like you are installing a G5 system?

ALSO... Go back and watch your DG/HSI as you move the rudder peddles. The
Heading should change as the peddles are moved. Move them slowly from stop
to stop. My SWAG is: If the Heading does NOT change - Don't worry about
it, you are good to go! The test procedure is way more sensitive/selective
than the Magnetometer and the DG/HSI.
If the DG/HSI does move then YES - Use the D-C.
Side Note: You can also do as ships do: Fly a course in direct Opposition
to the magnetic fields of the earth. This is used to Degauss the ship...
in your case the plane (ship). Look up Ship Degaussing procedures - Check
out "The Chapman's Manual".

Since there are very few old TV's which you can steal a coil from let's
move to your next options.
1 - Look for a place where you can purchase or rent a D-C. Look at the old
electronic shops.
2 - Obtain a ROLL of INSULATED wire - 24 to 34 AWG about 1,000 Ft. You
will have to have access to BOTH ends of the wire. Then all you have to do
connect a 110 VAC line and a Push Button Switch to the ends. The go GAUSS!

Best of luck,
Barry
On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 4:44 AM, tshort <tmshort(at)gmail.com> wrote:

>
> The aft mounted magnetometer in my RV 10 has failed interference testing,
> only when the rudder moves.
>
> Garmin tells me I need to degauss the rudder cables.
>
> Anyone have suggestions on how to do so?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479541#479541
>
>

________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
Time: 06:36:18 AM PST US
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Degaussing

WOW! GREAT TRICK JOE!!! GREAT TRICK!

Barry

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 8:52 AM, user9253 <fransew(at)gmail.com> wrote:

>
> Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron). Remove the two screws that
> hold the heating element. Put the heating element around the rudder
cable
> and reassemble the soldering gun. Turn on the soldering gun and slowly
> move it along the rudder cable, being careful not to burn yourself or
> anything else.
> I have never done this and have never heard about others doing it. But
> hey, it is worth a try.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479544#479544
>
>

________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
Time: 06:40:12 AM PST US
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Subject: Re: Magic stuff . . .
Thanks Bob! I shall continue with my present practice of carefully NOT
spraying
WD40 into every switch annually.
On Apr 24, 2018, at 11:13 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
wrote:

At 07:12 PM 4/24/2018, you wrote:
>
> I lost track of which Bob was recommending annual WD-40 as a switch
failure preventive
prophylactic, and which Bob wasnt.
> Can someone advise?

The short answer is "no".

The longer answer is, check the engineering
data on any line of switches or relays you
might be considering for your project. You
will find a constellation of styles and
ratings. It will be a rare switch or relay
that is rated for less than TENS OF THOUSANDS
of operations at rated load.

Now, consider how heavily you are going to load
this device . . . pushing the ratings? Probably
not. So from an ELECTRICAL perspective, the
service life of this devices will be some factor
greater than rated. Then we consider mechanical
service life . . . which logically exceeds the
rated electrical service life.

Now, how many operations are you going to put
on this device every year? Based on your
anticipated service demands, how many flight
hours will you put on the switch before it's
at risk for end of life? Trust me, it's a BIG
number . . . so big in fact that and end of
life failure is exceedingly tiny if not
zero. You cannot wear out that device during
your life experience with the airplane.

Hmmmm . . . switches and relays get replaced
all the time. Yup . . . and probably for
reasons unrelated to actual operating cycles
on the device. Okay, what's the reason
for premature failure? It's probably a combination
of serval things . . . most of which you'll
have no control over.

Hmmmm . . . what's a poor owner operator to do?
Can't tell you without going through the kinds
of failure analysis that dominated the last
10 years of my career in GA. The analysis
was expensive, time consuming and seldom
revealed a cheap and dirty resolution. Some
failures were one-of events usually based
on some fabrication error . . . it took
5-6 weeks of pushing one poor customer's
airplane up the chain of time, talent
and resources before I talked the pilots
into letting me tape a 37 conductor ribbon
cable to the fuselage and past gaskets in
the baggage and passenger doors. With this
rig I was able to watch a constellation
of parameters in the tail while we climbed
to 41000 feet . . . one more time . . . in
search of the elusive failure.

Found a crimp pin in a pressure bulkhead feed
through that was not seated. The wire bundles
had to get cold and shrink enough to pull the
pin back and cause the failure to manifest.

That 10-cent error cost tens of thousands
to chase down.

What's this have to do with switches on your
panel? It's but one example of how root cause
for a mis-behavior can run the range from
observable broken wires, dripping water or
hydraulic fluid, temperature cycles combined
with ozone concentrations, . . . all the way
up to failures that would only manifest
at altitude after consuming about as much fuel
in one flight as my wife's Saturn consumed in
a year.

Go back and look at the engineering data for
the device. I've never seen a manufacturer
recommend any form of periodic maintenance . . .
much less squirt 'magic stuff' into the device's
cracks with some notion of improving service
life or, worse yet, 'refurbishing' a misbehaving
switch.

Back in the day, we had several cans of cleaners,
lubes, sealers, etc. on the workbench where we
repaired radio and television sets. It was always
gratifying to drive the mischief out of a rotary
switch, noisy volume control or arcing flyback
transformer with a squirt of magic stuff.

But we're talking about airplanes now. We're
talking about devices that have obviously failed
to meet service life predictions. Okay, now what?
What forces in physics are responsible? Will
'magic stuff' mitigate those forces . . .
probably not. Will they 'repair' the effects
or simply squeeze a few more operations out of
a device that is close to gross failure? Finally,
how do you KNOW that you've squirted the magic
stuff into the RIGHT location and that it
doesn't present a new hazard to functionality
if it gets into the WRONG location.

Finally, how hard is it to replace a $5 switch that's
held on the panel with one nut and wired with a
couple or three fast-ons? I used to recommend
that my seminar attendees take a sunny afternoon
and $50 worth of switches and replace everything
on the panel . . . just for the hell of it.

System reliability benefits far more from
preventative maintenance than it does from
magic stuff applied to a device that's already
begging for help.

One more example. One day at Beech, a sales
rep came out to pitch a particular kind of
magic stuff. I think it was called "Stabilant 22."

It was reputed, nay, demonstrated to improve the
quality of metallic connection between pins and
sockets in our harness connectors. So, we
piled engineering data, test reports, user
testimonials, etc. etc. against field service
experience on a fleet of thousands of airplanes
gathered over 50+ years.

Yeah, Stabilant 22 was pretty whippy stuff . . .
but expensive and labor intensive with a risk
for waste due to spillage and getting it on
the wrong surfaces. I could just see the faces
of our line techs when we handed each one a bottle
of magic stuff with a requirement to properly apply
to each connector before it was mated up.

Then, there was the question, what's the return
on investment? After some consideration, we deduced
that it was a 'fix' for a problem we didn't have.

So there your have the long answer. If any combination
of components on your airplane is crying out for
help, then replace on condition is the
lowest risk and probably the lowest cost approach
to risk management. WD40 is good for the kid's
tricycle that might sit out and get rained on
from time to time.


Bob . . .
________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
Time: 06:53:45 AM PST US
Subject: Re: Magic stuff . . .
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Another side to the issue. WD-40 is essentially fish oil or a synthetic
clone of fish oil. It dries up over time and leaves a very sticky mess,
as well as attracting dirt.
If you insist on lubricating connections, ACF-50 or Corrosion X or just
contact cleaner are better alternatives.
The only use I have found for WD-40 around an airplane that doesn't
cause future problems is to use it as a belly cleaning solution.

Kelly

On 4/25/2018 6:38 AM, Alec Myers wrote:
>
> Thanks Bob! I shall continue with my present practice of carefully NOT
spraying
WD40 into every switch annually.
>

>> I lost track of which Bob was recommending annual WD-40 as a switch
failure
preventive prophylactic, and which Bob wasnt.
>> Can someone advise?
>
> The short answer is "no".
________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
Time: 12:37:59 PM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Degaussing

Try a soldering gun (NOT a soldering iron).
Remove the two screws that hold the heating
element. Put the heating element around the
rudder cable and reassemble the soldering gun.
Turn on the soldering gun and slowly move it
along the rudder cable, being careful not to
burn yourself or anything else.

I have never done this and have never heard
about others doing it. But hey, it is worth a try.
It works. I've used the soldering gun to
demag small tools. There are several articles
on the 'net for doing similar tasks.

demagnitizer from old soldering gun.jpg
Here the author made up a coil of longer
wire (gives stronger field with less heating).

One could take a piece of bare 12AWG copper
and form it 4-5 turns around the target
material before reconnecting to the soldering
gun. I've measured the current in stock
Weller tips at over 200 amps. So using
the single-turn of a stock tip would
give you 200+ ampere-turns of flux.

Fabricated coils will be higher
resistance but if you can get 150A
through 5 turns, your degaussing flux
rises to 750AT.
Bob . . .

________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
Time: 12:51:05 PM PST US
From: "David Lloyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Degaussing

=2E . . any chance there is other electronics "back" there that are operati
onal, such as tail strobe and power supply causing interference with flux.
??
------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
-----

---


- The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
Back to top
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> AeroElectric-List All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group