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ddddsp1(at)juno.com
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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 Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 1:18 am Post subject: Spinner Gotcha TIP |
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Precisely, Dean. I considered flush screws, but that trailing edge
of the spinner just doesn't have enough length. I wasn't
comfortable with a countersunk hole with that little bit of
edge distance. Besides that, I just don't think it would have
been quite as easy to have a safely secured spinner with flush
screws without having another 1/4" back there. I'm sure it
might never break, but I just didn't have the confidence.
The round head screws leave you with less thinned out area
affected.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
| Quote: | Looking at several RV 10 builder logs and final aircraft I was wondering
why so many chose to use round head screws in the spinner. I think I
know now. IF you do not rivet your nutplates on the spinner back plate
forward enough..........you do not have room on the aft of the spinner
for the #8 screw with Tinneman washer. The normal thought when mounting
nutplates to the spinner back plate is to CENTER the nutplate. However,
if you do this you will not have enough spinner left for the hardware
called out. IF you just put in a round head #8 screw all is well
....but now you have an ugly round head vs a FLUSH head. Another tip is
drill out a #6 Tinneman and use with a #8 flush screw on your Spinner IF
you are a little short on real estate on the aft of your spinner. Hope
this helps those buliders who have yet to get to this part in the
building process.
So next time you see a RV 10 with round head screws in the
spinner...........will you ask the builder WHY he used those when almost
the entire outside of the plane is put together with FLUSH style
hardware?  Keep banging and sanding..........it really starts to
look like a plane with the motor and cowling mounted!!!!!
Dean
40449
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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| Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 4:26 am Post subject: Spinner Gotcha TIP |
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Dean, I'm going to guess why round-head screws. The spinner has to endure some really nasty vibrations, and the counter-sunk screws really don't have much to grip with. I like truss head screws for this application (and just about anywhere else) for attaching sheet metal. They have a little less profile and look less like a small frog sitting on the surface!!! The downside of the truss head is that the screwdriver will strip out easier so I use antisieze a lot.
But that's just a guess.
Linn
do not archive
ddddsp1(at)juno.com (ddddsp1(at)juno.com) wrote:
[quote]
Looking at several RV 10 builder logs and final aircraft I was wondering why so many chose to use round head screws in the spinner. I think I know now. IF you do not rivet your nutplates on the spinner back plate forward enough..........you do not have room on the aft of the spinner for the #8 screw with Tinneman washer. The normal thought when mounting nutplates to the spinner back plate is to CENTER the nutplate. However, if you do this you will not have enough spinner left for the hardware called out. IF you just put in a round head #8 screw all is well ....but now you have an ugly round head vs a FLUSH head. Another tip is drill out a #6 Tinneman and use with a #8 flush screw on your Spinner IF you are a little short on real estate on the aft of your spinner. Hope this helps those buliders who have yet to get to this part in the building process.
So next time you see a RV 10 with round head screws in the spinner...........will you ask the builder WHY he used those when almost the entire outside of the plane is put together with FLUSH style hardware? Keep banging and sanding..........it really starts to look like a plane with the motor and cowling mounted!!!!!
Dean
40449
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carl.froehlich(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 5:38 am Post subject: Spinner Gotcha TIP |
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I have #8 SS screws with drilled out #6 SS tinnerman washers on my 8A. Works fine. I'll do the same on the 10.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (270 hrs)
RV-10 (tail cone - still)
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