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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 780
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 Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 6:48 am Post subject: Two ignitions on Rotax |
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Hi Group
Curious, is there some unwritten general labeling of Rotax 914 ignition A and B to which one should be Left and Right?
If not will use:
Right=R=Retarded=B=22BTDC?
Left=L=Less Retarded (Advanced)=A=26BTDC?
Thx. Ron P.
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rlborger(at)mac.com
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| Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:47 am Post subject: Two ignitions on Rotax |
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Ron,
FWIW, I just labeled mine as IGN A and IGN B.
[img]cid:5C3CC2D4-7E17-4FFD-AD7C-922B600D8ACA[/img]
There really isn’t a “LEFT or RIGHT.”
I guess you could label them IGN TOP and IGN BOTTOM and stack the switches the same way.
Blue skies & tailwinds,Bob BorgerEuropa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP, Hercules Prop.3705 Lynchburg Dr.Corinth, TX 76208-5331Cel: 817-992-1117rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)
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budyerly@msn.com
Joined: 05 Oct 2019
Posts: 281
Location: Florida USA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:49 am Post subject: Two ignitions on Rotax |
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Ron,
It doesn't matter as long as you know and write it down in your wiring book/logs.
I use top box is A/Left on the ignition switch and bottom is B Right on ignition switch.
Just log it and make sure you mark the ignition wires also so when doing maintenance 10 years down the road, you can tell, because you sure as heck won't remember.
I can't tell you how many times I have gone back to my laptop (or phone) and reviewed what pin went to what wire bundle to what instrument. I work tirelessly to keep my modifications, changes, upgrades all logged and the wiring book up to date. From the Airmaster Propeller back to the rudder trim. Document what you do.
The mind is a terrible thing and the one I miss the most.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
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rowlandcarson(at)gmail.co
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| Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 10:48 am Post subject: Two ignitions on Rotax |
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On 2021-03-20, at 14:48, rparigoris <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
| Quote: | Curious, is there some unwritten general labeling of Rotax 914 ignition A and B to which one should be Left and Right?
If not will use:
Right=R=Retarded=B=24BTDC?
Left=L=Less Retarded (Advanced)=A=26BTDC?
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Ron, anyone - I have labelled my 912ULS ignition switches A and B corresponding to the ignition modules. I used separate toggle switches rather than the typical keyswitch because I seem to recall that someone said the 912S starts better on one particular magneto.
However, I now can’t find a reference to that assertion. I do find that the Rotax heavy maintenance manual says that the 912 timing is the same for both ignition circuits (26˚ BTDC), but different on the 914 (A 26˚ BTDC, B 22˚ BTDC) so I am beginning to think that I misremembered!
Any observations on the topic welcome.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 780
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| Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 11:01 am Post subject: Re: Two ignitions on Rotax |
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Hi Group
Thank you for replies.
Rowland, the 914 ignition modules are the same but A is more advanced than B.
I have a separate starter switch, but ignition is keyed with OFF-R-L-BOTH.
I would rather not have to modify switch plate.
I'm going to go with:
R=Retarded=B
L=Less Retarded=A
Ron P.
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budyerly@msn.com
Joined: 05 Oct 2019
Posts: 281
Location: Florida USA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 4:21 pm Post subject: Two ignitions on Rotax |
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Ron,
Never thought of that logic. It works. But...Retarded....Is that being politically correct? Hmmm.
Keep in mid that your 914 doesn't have the soft start issues of the 912S early versions (without the soft start ignition or add on box). Don't confuse apples and oranges.
Keep the battery strong and AvGas or really fresh car gas and the 914 will start. If it every doesn't want to start, its the plugs normally. If you get them wet and cranking voltage drops to 9 or so volts cranking, it won't go.
Follow common sense, adjust the carbs properly, keep clean plugs, fresh gas and it will start quickly. If it cranks on and on. STOP. Turn off the master, jump it and allow the ignition circuit timer to reset.
If you let the plugs get dirty or even old or use old car gas, you will more than likely have starting issues.
My troubleshooting guide misses the point of being specific about the 914. As the kids say "My Bad". I should have included a picture of where I set my throttle plate after a carb rebuild. If the plate is too far opened or closed it doesn't like to start either.
I know you know that the 914 fires top plugs on one module and bottom on the other. The 914 is a different animal about starting and running smoothly than the older 912S.
Rarely do I see a 914 ever kick back. It just won't start if the RPM isn't above about 250. Heck mine won't start below 300 with old plugs. If you can count the blades going by, it ain't gonna start in the cold or if the plugs are dirty or wet. Just stop and get a charge or a good jump, consider changing plugs at 25 hours. I did not beat this home in my troubleshooting guide either. "My Bad."
Used plugs can be cleaned but not just brushed off with a plug cleaner. The problem is with our anemic spark system and the plugs themselves. The area from the electrode down the ceramic insulator and up the side wall to the plug exterior gets a bit of carbon, or lead and this tends to ground out the electrode making for poor spark somewhere around 25 hours of pattern flying. I found that an ultrasonic cleaner and ensuring the plugs are cleaned while in a vertical position with the solution of detergent or carb cleaner filling the plug recess fully, will clean out this trapped soot/carbon/lead and renew the plug sufficiently for re-use. Time is money, so frankly plugs are cheap. I'm experimenting with mine to see how long my cleaned plugs work. I'll report more later, but I figure it takes an hour of ultrasonic cleaning to get them really like new. Is that worth the $35 for 8 new plugs? We'll see.
Simple Green detergent makes the plugs really bright and shiny, and carb cleaner works a bit faster and leaves the plug metal a golden tan. Ah choices.
Sorry I didn't clean up my guide better.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
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