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andynfultz(at)bellsouth.n
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 Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:20 pm Post subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration |
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| Quote: | I know this got long guys, but I need some input. Thanks in advance for your time.
How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my story:
I purchased my Strauts EA-81 engine nearly 10 years ago, but have only recently finished and started flying my plane (AVID Flyer)on June 14, 2011. At 43 hours I noticed oil leaking from around the lower front left case bolt. OK, I'll tighten it up. Didn't happen as it had already stripped the threads from the right case half. This required removing the engine tearing it down and putting a helicoil in the case (per Mykal Templeman. So I tear it down install the helicoil and then start to reassemble. Another one strips before getting even snug thight. Split the case and install helicoil #2 in the case. Finally got the case halves back together and torqued to Mykal's specs. Now I'm reinstalling the head and one of the head studs pulls out before geting good snug. Damn it! So I remove the head, go to the parts store and had to order 11mm 1.25 helicoils. Two days later I install the helicoil #3 for the head stud and am about to get this thing back together when one of the rocker arm assembly bolts strips out. Damn it again! The head comes back off and in goes helicoil #4. Finally all is good, all bolts torque to Mykal's specs and the engine is finally completely reassembled and reinstalled. Valves are readjusted and engine is test run. All is good. Fly the next afternoon and everything seems to be ok. Since then, I have put on a total of 80.7 hours when trouble rears its nasty little head again.
This past Saturday 9/10/11, I decided to fly to an airport 50 miles away to see a friend and have lunch. All seems well on arrival, but when I shut down and opened the door I smelled oil on the exhaust. When I got out I could see oil dripping from the cowling and and all over the bottom of the plane. Looking in the cowl openings I can see the I'm missing a valve-cover bolt. NO problem, right? Just find another bolt and rubber gasket material to get me home after a wash down to get all the oil out of the cowl and off the engine. Didn't lose but about a pint of oil (and a pint makes a huge mess). Found a bolt and put it in but it didn't seem to want tighten up but got snug enough. Started the engine to taxi to a friends hangar to clean it up and the engine was missing and running horribly. Taxied just a little ways and shut it down. Checked plugs, wires, distributor and all else external that might cause the missing. Nothing found. Degreased and washed it down. Started it again and still running bad on both ignitions. Got out and started looking for the cool spots on the engine. Entire left side cool, but #2 cyl cooler than all others. Removed valve cover on left side and found the forward bolt on the rocker-arm assembly had backed out over .25" and when I reinstalled the missing valve cover bolt it had caused the rocker-arm assembly to pull away form the head and caused one of the lifter pushrods to fall loose from its seat in the rocker arm. Remember the back bolt here already has a helicoil installed. OK, let's get the pushrod back in place and retorque the rocker-arm assembly bolts. Borrowed a socket, ratchet and torque wrench. With the socket on the ratchet, I started to run the bolt back down and it would not tighten up enough to even start using the torque wrench. DAMN IT AGAIN!! NOthing left to do now but hitch a ride home, load up my tools and come back for helicoil #5. Had to order another head gasket which came in today, so I took off work drove back over to the plane and went to work. Removed the head, installed the helicoil and started to reassemble when yet another head stud pulled out at 30 ft lbs. (Mykal Templeman says these should be torqued to 48-50 ft. lbs.) DAMN IT YET AGAIN! Off comes the head and in goes helicoil #6. YES #6 so far and all on the same side. Finally it goes back together and all are torqued to 48 ft. lbs. Installed new coolant and oil and test ran engine on ground. All seems good so we let it cool while we went to get a burger. Got back to the airport, checked fluids and went up for a test flight. Ran good, so after a brief time on the ground I took off and headed out for a 36 minute uneventful flight home.
About two hours after I got home, I decided to go up again and now I'm feeling that same vibration starting to develope that I noticed before the last problem with the rocker-arm bolt. Maybe it's just me, but I decowled it and will wait till tomorrow afternoon to remove the valve covers and check the valve clearance again. Could be that, could be that the timing is a little off or the carbs may need balancing, but I can't get Mykal to reply to my e-mail pleas for for him to call or give me a number he can be reached at to help me. I have no idea how to check the timing or what the best procedure is to check the carbs for balance.
My vibration is between 975-1075 rpm and at 2050-2200rpm and around 4050 rpm. Sounds harmonic, but the prop has been checked and it is so close to perfectly balanced I left it alone. My spinner, which is a UHS spinner, is not perfectly centered and does have a noticable wobble. I'm just looking for some input. I've already tried moving the prop one hole and that did very little, if any at all, to allieviate any felt vibration. Thanks guys. BTW, I'm now at 83 hours total time on the engine.
Andy Fultz
AVID Extended Speedwing and Fuselage
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bryanmmartin
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1018
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 2:34 am Post subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration |
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On Sep 14, 2011, at 12:18 AM, Andy Fultz wrote:
| Quote: | How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my story:
|
I had to install one on the exhaust port.
The proceedure for balanceing the carbs is the same as any dual carb setup, do a Google search. I would not expect that reclocking the prop would have any effect on the vibration since the prop does not move in sync with the engine due to the non-integer ratio of the reduction drive. The timing on the conversion is fixed because the vacuum advance is not used but I don't recall the correct setting. The timing shouldn't have changed unless the distributor is loose.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
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_________________
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Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
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fhelbig(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:02 am Post subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration |
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Helicoils
My name is Fred Helbig I have owned and operated Helbigs Repair Shop for about 40 years .I have worked primairly on the Subars for that time, lots of EA81
s,the only Subaru engine that striped out threads like that was one that was driven 15 miles with no coolant in it.I think Something happened to the alloy when it was over heated.
The only subarus that I have overhauled that gave me oil leak problems were the ones that we used after market gaskets or seals on. almost zero when we used Genuine subaru stuff . If it did leak it was something we did, OEM and Genuine are not the same.Of the hundrds we have overhauled we have had very little problems. Use genuine parts and 599 sealer and you should have very little problems And use a subaru maintance manual not Hanes, All data,Mitchel or any other aftermarket manual, Subaru sevice manual. One oher thing if using the subaru ecm try to use a subaru factory scan tool for the later year cars after 98 they have much more info in them hope this helps Fred
[quote] Subject: R ,e: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration
From: bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 06:31:35 -0400
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
--> Stratus-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net>
On Sep 14, 2011, at 12:18 AM, Andy Fultz wrote:
> How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my story:
>
I had to install one on the exhaust port.
The proceedure for balanceing the carbs is the same as any dual carb setup, do a Google search. I would not expect that reclocking the prop would have any effect on the vibration since the prop does not move in sync with the engine due to the non-integer ratio of the reduction drive. The timing on the conversion is fixed because the vacuum advance is not used but I don't recall the correct setting. The timing shouldn't have changed unless the distributor is loose.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
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gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.co
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:23 am Post subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration |
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I never had to install helicoils in my Stratus. I have not had any problems like you have, other than a weeping seal on the crankshaft behind the PSRU.
Sorry to hear this, sounds like a lot of problems.
On 9/13/2011 11:18 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: [quote] (at)font-face { font-family: Calibri; } (at)page WordSection1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in; } P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; COLOR: windowtext; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif" } LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; COLOR: windowtext; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif" } DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; COLOR: windowtext; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif" } A:link { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.MsoHyperlink { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; mso-style-priority: 99 } A:visited { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; mso-style-priority: 99 } P { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0in; COLOR: #000066; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman","serif"; mso-style-priority: 99; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto } SPAN.EmailStyle17 { COLOR: windowtext; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-style-type: personal-compose } .MsoChpDefault { FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-style-type: export-only } DIV.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1 } <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
| Quote: | I know this got long guys, but I need some input. Thanks in advance for your time.
How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my story:
I purchased my Strauts EA-81 engine nearly 10 years ago, but have only recently finished and started flying my plane (AVID Flyer)on June 14, 2011. At 43 hours I noticed oil leaking from around the lower front left case bolt. OK, I'll tighten it up. Didn't happen as it had already stripped the threads from the right case half. This required removing the engine tearing it down and putting a helicoil in the case (per Mykal Templeman. So I tear it down install the helicoil and then start to reassemble. Another one strips before getting even snug thight. Split the case and install helicoil #2 in the case. Finally got the case halves back together and torqued to Mykal's specs. Now I'm reinstalling the head and one of the head studs pulls out before geting good snug. Damn it! So I remove the head, go to the parts store and had to order 11mm 1.25 helicoils. Two days later I install the helicoil #3 for the head stud and am about to get this thing back together when one of the rocker arm assembly bolts strips out. Damn it again! The head comes back off and in goes helicoil #4. Finally all is good, all bolts torque to Mykal's specs and the engine is finally completely reassembled and reinstalled. Valves are readjusted and engine is test run. All is good. Fly the next afternoon and everything seems to be ok. Since then, I have put on a total of 80.7 hours when trouble rears its nasty little head again.
This past Saturday 9/10/11, I decided to fly to an airport 50 miles away to see a friend and have lunch. All seems well on arrival, but when I shut down and opened the door I smelled oil on the exhaust. When I got out I could see oil dripping from the cowling and and all over the bottom of the plane. Looking in the cowl openings I can see the I'm missing a valve-cover bolt. NO problem, right? Just find another bolt and rubber gasket material to get me home after a wash down to get all the oil out of the cowl and off the engine. Didn't lose but about a pint of oil (and a pint makes a huge mess). Found a bolt and put it in but it didn't seem to want tighten up but got snug enough. Started the engine to taxi to a friends hangar to clean it up and the engine was missing and running horribly. Taxied just a little ways and shut it down. Checked plugs, wires, distributor and all else external that might cause the missing. Nothing found. Degreased and washed it down. Started it again and still running bad on both ignitions. Got out and started looking for the cool spots on the engine. Entire left side cool, but #2 cyl cooler than all others. Removed valve cover on left side and found the forward bolt on the rocker-arm assembly had backed out over .25" and when I reinstalled the missing valve cover bolt it had caused the rocker-arm assembly to pull away form the head and caused one of the lifter pushrods to fall loose from its seat in the rocker arm. Remember the back bolt here already has a helicoil installed. OK, let's get the pushrod back in place and retorque the rocker-arm assembly bolts. Borrowed a socket, ratchet and torque wrench. With the socket on the ratchet, I started to run the bolt back down and it would not tighten up enough to even start using the torque wrench. DAMN IT AGAIN!! NOthing left to do now but hitch a ride home, load up my tools and come back for helicoil #5. Had to order another head gasket which came in today, so I took off work drove back over to the plane and went to work. Removed the head, installed the helicoil and started to reassemble when yet another head stud pulled out at 30 ft lbs. (Mykal Templeman says these should be torqued to 48-50 ft. lbs.) DAMN IT YET AGAIN! Off comes the head and in goes helicoil #6. YES #6 so far and all on the same side. Finally it goes back together and all are torqued to 48 ft. lbs. Installed new coolant and oil and test ran engine on ground. All seems good so we let it cool while we went to get a burger. Got back to the airport, checked fluids and went up for a test flight. Ran good, so after a brief time on the ground I took off and headed out for a 36 minute uneventful flight home.
About two hours after I got home, I decided to go up again and now I'm feeling that same vibration starting to develope that I noticed before the last problem with the rocker-arm bolt. Maybe it's just me, but I decowled it and will wait till tomorrow afternoon to remove the valve covers and check the valve clearance again. Could be that, could be that the timing is a little off or the carbs may need balancing, but I can't get Mykal to reply to my e-mail pleas for for him to call or give me a number he can be reached at to help me. I have no idea how to check the timing or what the best procedure is to check the carbs for balance.
My vibration is between 975-1075 rpm and at 2050-2200rpm and around 4050 rpm. Sounds harmonic, but the prop has been checked and it is so close to perfectly balanced I left it alone. My spinner, which is a UHS spinner, is not perfectly centered and does have a noticable wobble. I'm just looking for some input. I've already tried moving the prop one hole and that did very little, if any at all, to allieviate any felt vibration. Thanks guys. BTW, I'm now at 83 hours total time on the engine.
Andy Fultz
AVID Extended Speedwing and Fuselage
|
[b]
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larry(at)macsmachine.com
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 7:11 am Post subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration |
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Hi Bryan,
I had to install one on an exhaust port. It took a M10X1.25 and I never had
any difficulty thereafter. I would say the thread length
on that exhaust port seems to be rather short for the work it does. This was
before I ever started the engine.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
--
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larry(at)macsmachine.com
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:43 am Post subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration |
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|
Andy,
I found and use a good advance-dial-induction type timing-light obtained from Harbor Freight.
See link, http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html
Instructions provided will get you to the setting needed for 32 degrees before top dead center.
Very nice to have and is easy to use.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Fultz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 11:18 PM
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration
| Quote: |
I know this got long guys, but I need some input. Thanks in advance for your time.
How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my story:
I purchased my Strauts EA-81 engine nearly 10 years ago, but have only recently finished and started flying my plane (AVID Flyer)on June 14, 2011. At 43 hours I noticed oil leaking from around the lower front left case bolt. OK, I'll tighten it up. Didn't happen as it had already stripped the threads from the right case half. This required removing the engine tearing it down and putting a helicoil in the case (per Mykal Templeman. So I tear it down install the helicoil and then start to reassemble. Another one strips before getting even snug thight. Split the case and install helicoil #2 in the case. Finally got the case halves back together and torqued to Mykal's specs. Now I'm reinstalling the head and one of the head studs pulls out before geting good snug. Damn it! So I remove the head, go to the parts store and had to order 11mm 1.25 helicoils. Two days later I install the helicoil #3 for the head stud and am about to get this thing back together when one of the rocker arm assembly bolts strips out. Damn it again! The head comes back off and in goes helicoil #4. Finally all is good, all bolts torque to Mykal's specs and the engine is finally completely reassembled and reinstalled. Valves are readjusted and engine is test run. All is good. Fly the next afternoon and everything seems to be ok. Since then, I have put on a total of 80.7 hours when trouble rears its nasty little head again.
This past Saturday 9/10/11, I decided to fly to an airport 50 miles away to see a friend and have lunch. All seems well on arrival, but when I shut down and opened the door I smelled oil on the exhaust. When I got out I could see oil dripping from the cowling and and all over the bottom of the plane. Looking in the cowl openings I can see the I'm missing a valve-cover bolt. NO problem, right? Just find another bolt and rubber gasket material to get me home after a wash down to get all the oil out of the cowl and off the engine. Didn't lose but about a pint of oil (and a pint makes a huge mess). Found a bolt and put it in but it didn't seem to want tighten up but got snug enough. Started the engine to taxi to a friends hangar to clean it up and the engine was missing and running horribly. Taxied just a little ways and shut it down. Checked plugs, wires, distributor and all else external that might cause the missing. Nothing found. Degreased and washed it down. Started it again and still running bad on both ignitions. Got out and started looking for the cool spots on the engine. Entire left side cool, but #2 cyl cooler than all others. Removed valve cover on left side and found the forward bolt on the rocker-arm assembly had backed out over .25" and when I reinstalled the missing valve cover bolt it had caused the rocker-arm assembly to pull away form the head and caused one of the lifter pushrods to fall loose from its seat in the rocker arm. Remember the back bolt here already has a helicoil installed. OK, let's get the pushrod back in place and retorque the rocker-arm assembly bolts. Borrowed a socket, ratchet and torque wrench. With the socket on the ratchet, I started to run the bolt back down and it would not tighten up enough to even start using the torque wrench. DAMN IT AGAIN!! NOthing left to do now but hitch a ride home, load up my tools and come back for helicoil #5. Had to order another head gasket which came in today, so I took off work drove back over to the plane and went to work. Removed the head, installed the helicoil and started to reassemble when yet another head stud pulled out at 30 ft lbs. (Mykal Templeman says these should be torqued to 48-50 ft. lbs.) DAMN IT YET AGAIN! Off comes the head and in goes helicoil #6. YES #6 so far and all on the same side. Finally it goes back together and all are torqued to 48 ft. lbs. Installed new coolant and oil and test ran engine on ground. All seems good so we let it cool while we went to get a burger. Got back to the airport, checked fluids and went up for a test flight. Ran good, so after a brief time on the ground I took off and headed out for a 36 minute uneventful flight home.
About two hours after I got home, I decided to go up again and now I'm feeling that same vibration starting to develope that I noticed before the last problem with the rocker-arm bolt. Maybe it's just me, but I decowled it and will wait till tomorrow afternoon to remove the valve covers and check the valve clearance again. Could be that, could be that the timing is a little off or the carbs may need balancing, but I can't get Mykal to reply to my e-mail pleas for for him to call or give me a number he can be reached at to help me. I have no idea how to check the timing or what the best procedure is to check the carbs for balance.
My vibration is between 975-1075 rpm and at 2050-2200rpm and around 4050 rpm. Sounds harmonic, but the prop has been checked and it is so close to perfectly balanced I left it alone. My spinner, which is a UHS spinner, is not perfectly centered and does have a noticable wobble. I'm just looking for some input. I've already tried moving the prop one hole and that did very little, if any at all, to allieviate any felt vibration. Thanks guys. BTW, I'm now at 83 hours total time on the engine.
Andy Fultz
AVID Extended Speedwing and Fuselage http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List |
01234567
[quote][b]
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andynfultz(at)bellsouth.n
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:01 am Post subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration |
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Thanks for the responses guys. Fred, I'm beginning to think that may be a possibility at least in a prior life. It has not seen any overheating since it has been in service as a Status engine. Wish I had found all this while it was still under warranty.
On Wed Sep 14th, 2011 7:57 AM CDT Fred Helbig wrote:
| Quote: |
Helicoils My name is Fred Helbig I have owned and operated Helbigs Repair Shop for about 40 years .I have worked primairly on the Subars for that time, lots of EA81s,the only Subaru engine that striped out threads like that was one that was driven 15 miles with no coolant in it.I think Something happened to the alloy when it was over heated. The only subarus that I have overhauled that gave me oil leak problems were the ones that we used after market gaskets or seals on. almost zero when we used Genuine subaru stuff . If it did leak it was something we did, OEM and Genuine are not the same.Of the hundrds we have overhauled we have had very little problems. Use genuine parts and 599 sealer and you should have very little problems And use a subaru maintance manual not Hanes, All data,Mitchel or any other aftermarket manual, Subaru sevice manual. One oher thing if using the subaru ecm try to use a subaru factory scan tool for the later year cars after
98 they have much more info in them hope this helps Fred> Subject: R ,e: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration
|
| Quote: | > From: bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net
> Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 06:31:35 -0400
> To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 14, 2011, at 12:18 AM, Andy Fultz wrote:
>
> > How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my story:
> >
>
> I had to install one on the exhaust port.
>
> The proceedure for balanceing the carbs is the same as any dual carb setup, do a Google search. I would not expect that reclocking the prop would have any effect on the vibration since the prop does not move in sync with the engine due to the non-integer ratio of the reduction drive. The timing on the conversion is fixed because the vacuum advance is not used but I don't recall the correct setting. The timing shouldn't have changed unless the distributor is loose.
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL,
> RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
> do not archive.
>
>
>
>
>
>
============
============
============
============
>
>
>
|
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andynfultz(at)bellsouth.n
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:04 am Post subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration |
|
|
Larry, what I need to know is where to point the light 
On Wed Sep 14th, 2011 12:39 PM CDT Larry McFarland wrote:
| Quote: | Andy,
I found and use a good advance-dial-induction type timing-light obtained
from Harbor Freight.
See link,
http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html
Instructions provided will get you to the setting needed for 32 degrees
before top dead center.
Very nice to have and is easy to use.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Fultz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 11:18 PM
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration
I know this got long guys, but I need some input. Thanks in advance for
your time.
How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my
story:
I purchased my Strauts EA-81 engine nearly 10 years ago, but have only
recently finished and started flying my plane (AVID Flyer)on June 14, 2011.
At 43 hours I noticed oil leaking from around the lower front left case
bolt. OK, I'll tighten it up. Didn't happen as it had already stripped the
threads from the right case half. This required removing the engine tearing
it down and putting a helicoil in the case (per Mykal Templeman. So I tear
it down install the helicoil and then start to reassemble. Another one
strips before getting even snug thight. Split the case and install helicoil
#2 in the case. Finally got the case halves back together and torqued to
Mykal's specs. Now I'm reinstalling the head and one of the head studs
pulls out before geting good snug. Damn it! So I remove the head, go to
the parts store and had to order 11mm 1.25 helicoils. Two days later I
install the helicoil #3 for the head stud and am about to get this thing
back together when one of the rocker arm assembly bolts strips out. Damn it
again! The head comes back off and in goes helicoil #4. Finally all is
good, all bolts torque to Mykal's specs and the engine is finally completely
reassembled and reinstalled. Valves are readjusted and engine is test run.
All is good. Fly the next afternoon and everything seems to be ok. Since
then, I have put on a total of 80.7 hours when trouble rears its nasty
little head again.
This past Saturday 9/10/11, I decided to fly to an airport 50 miles away
to see a friend and have lunch. All seems well on arrival, but when I shut
down and opened the door I smelled oil on the exhaust. When I got out I
could see oil dripping from the cowling and and all over the bottom of the
plane. Looking in the cowl openings I can see the I'm missing a valve-cover
bolt. NO problem, right? Just find another bolt and rubber gasket material
to get me home after a wash down to get all the oil out of the cowl and off
the engine. Didn't lose but about a pint of oil (and a pint makes a huge
mess). Found a bolt and put it in but it didn't seem to want tighten up but
got snug enough. Started the engine to taxi to a friends hangar to clean it
up and the engine was missing and running horribly. Taxied just a little
ways and shut it down. Checked plugs, wires, distributor and all else
external that might cause the missing. Nothing found. Degreased and washed
it down. Started it again and still running bad on both ignitions. Got out
and started looking for the cool spots on the engine. Entire left side cool,
but #2 cyl cooler than all others. Removed valve cover on left side and
found the forward bolt on the rocker-arm assembly had backed out over .25"
and when I reinstalled the missing valve cover bolt it had caused the
rocker-arm assembly to pull away form the head and caused one of the lifter
pushrods to fall loose from its seat in the rocker arm. Remember the back
bolt here already has a helicoil installed. OK, let's get the pushrod back
in place and retorque the rocker-arm assembly bolts. Borrowed a socket,
ratchet and torque wrench. With the socket on the ratchet, I started to run
the bolt back down and it would not tighten up enough to even start using
the torque wrench. DAMN IT AGAIN!! NOthing left to do now but hitch a ride
home, load up my tools and come back for helicoil #5. Had to order another
head gasket which came in today, so I took off work drove back over to the
plane and went to work. Removed the head, installed the helicoil and
started to reassemble when yet another head stud pulled out at 30 ft lbs.
(Mykal Templeman says these should be torqued to 48-50 ft. lbs.) DAMN IT
YET AGAIN! Off comes the head and in goes helicoil #6. YES #6 so far and
all on the same side. Finally it goes back together and all are torqued to
48 ft. lbs. Installed new coolant and oil and test ran engine on ground.
All seems good so we let it cool while we went to get a burger. Got back to
the airport, checked fluids and went up for a test flight. Ran good, so
after a brief time on the ground I took off and headed out for a 36 minute
uneventful flight home.
About two hours after I got home, I decided to go up again and now I'm
feeling that same vibration starting to develope that I noticed before the
last problem with the rocker-arm bolt. Maybe it's just me, but I decowled
it and will wait till tomorrow afternoon to remove the valve covers and
check the valve clearance again. Could be that, could be that the timing is
a little off or the carbs may need balancing, but I can't get Mykal to reply
to my e-mail pleas for for him to call or give me a number he can be reached
at to help me. I have no idea how to check the timing or what the best
procedure is to check the carbs for balance.
My vibration is between 975-1075 rpm and at 2050-2200rpm and around 4050
rpm. Sounds harmonic, but the prop has been checked and it is so close to
perfectly balanced I left it alone. My spinner, which is a UHS spinner, is
not perfectly centered and does have a noticable wobble. I'm just looking
for some input. I've already tried moving the prop one hole and that did
very little, if any at all, to allieviate any felt vibration. Thanks guys.
BTW, I'm now at 83 hours total time on the engine.
Andy Fultz
AVID Extended Speedwing and Fuselage
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