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Soldering question--What am I doing wrong?

 
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BigD(at)DaveMorris.com
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:38 pm    Post subject: Soldering question--What am I doing wrong? Reply with quote

As long as you have a good solder joint on the soldered side of the board,
screw the other side.

Sorry, I should re-word that. It has nothing to do with bolts. "Ignore
the other side". There.

Dave Morris
At 12:54 PM 2/27/2006, you wrote:
Quote:

<rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>

I'm building the Creative Air LED nav light kits, working on the LED's.

So here's what I am doing.

First I clean up the boards and LED leads with alcohol.

Put them in the boards & bend the wires.

Tin the iron. It's a 15 watt iron.

Put the iron on the connection, then apply the solder. Bill says the LED's
are heat sensitive and to only hold the iron on them a couple seconds.

Half the time the solder doesn't penetrate the board, so I only have a cone
of solder on the lead on one side of the board, the side I am soldering on.

To try to fix it, I try to solder it again.

If that doesn't work (it rarely does), I remove most of the solder using
the iron and a clean cotton swab to absorb the solder & try again. Rarely
works.

Some of these I try a dozen times & still no joy.

How can I get a good soldered joint with a cone of solder on both sides of
the board? I have been told that that's what I need for a good
joint. Maybe that guy was wrong?

Richard Scott
RV-9A





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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 2:57 pm    Post subject: Soldering question--What am I doing wrong? Reply with quote

At 10:54 AM 2/27/2006 -0800, you wrote:

Quote:

<rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>

I'm building the Creative Air LED nav light kits, working on the LED's.

So here's what I am doing.

First I clean up the boards and LED leads with alcohol.

Put them in the boards & bend the wires.

Tin the iron. It's a 15 watt iron.

Put the iron on the connection, then apply the solder. Bill says the LED's
are heat sensitive and to only hold the iron on them a couple seconds.

Half the time the solder doesn't penetrate the board, so I only have a cone
of solder on the lead on one side of the board, the side I am soldering on.

To try to fix it, I try to solder it again.

If that doesn't work (it rarely does), I remove most of the solder using
the iron and a clean cotton swab to absorb the solder & try again. Rarely
works.

Some of these I try a dozen times & still no joy.

How can I get a good soldered joint with a cone of solder on both sides of
the board? I have been told that that's what I need for a good
joint. Maybe that guy was wrong?

Sounds like not enough heat. ALL semiconductors are "sensitive" to
heat but they're all routinely installed by soldering. If you're
not getting the flow you want, the tool is too cold. I presume too
that you're using 63/37 or 64/40 solder with a good pedigree.

All of our tips here run 700F on 30W irons with a great deal of
ability to cook things if you are sloppy and/or really slow. But
I don't know of any components that are not designed to withstand
ordinary (4-5 seconds) of sufficient heat to get flow in their installation
joints.

Forget the wattage. Get a temperature controlled iron of any wattage
30 or more. Set for no less than 600F and use good solder. Then apply
heat as necessary to get the flow you're looking for. Wattage is an
exceedingly poor way to rate a soldering iron's ability. Our 30 Watt
irons (Metcal) will solder terminals to 4AWG fat wire and the same
iron installs 32 leg IC's with .025" pitch between the pins.

Bob . . .


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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:41 pm    Post subject: Soldering question--What am I doing wrong? Reply with quote

Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrong? wrote:

Quote:


At 10:54 AM 2/27/2006 -0800, you wrote:



>
><rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
>
>I'm building the Creative Air LED nav light kits, working on the LED's.
>
>So here's what I am doing.
>
>First I clean up the boards and LED leads with alcohol.
>
>Put them in the boards & bend the wires.
>
>Tin the iron. It's a 15 watt iron.
>
>Put the iron on the connection, then apply the solder. Bill says the LED's
>are heat sensitive and to only hold the iron on them a couple seconds.
>
>Half the time the solder doesn't penetrate the board, so I only have a cone
>of solder on the lead on one side of the board, the side I am soldering on.
>
>To try to fix it, I try to solder it again.
>
>If that doesn't work (it rarely does), I remove most of the solder using
>the iron and a clean cotton swab to absorb the solder & try again. Rarely
>works.
>
>Some of these I try a dozen times & still no joy.
>
>How can I get a good soldered joint with a cone of solder on both sides of
>the board? I have been told that that's what I need for a good
>joint. Maybe that guy was wrong?
>
>

Sounds like not enough heat. ALL semiconductors are "sensitive" to
heat but they're all routinely installed by soldering. If you're
not getting the flow you want, the tool is too cold. I presume too
that you're using 63/37 or 64/40 solder with a good pedigree.

All of our tips here run 700F on 30W irons with a great deal of
ability to cook things if you are sloppy and/or really slow. But
I don't know of any components that are not designed to withstand
ordinary (4-5 seconds) of sufficient heat to get flow in their installation
joints.

Forget the wattage. Get a temperature controlled iron of any wattage
30 or more. Set for no less than 600F and use good solder. Then apply
heat as necessary to get the flow you're looking for. Wattage is an
exceedingly poor way to rate a soldering iron's ability. Our 30 Watt
irons (Metcal) will solder terminals to 4AWG fat wire and the same
iron installs 32 leg IC's with .025" pitch between the pins.

Bob . . .


I hope that adding to Bob's answer isn't too presumptuous....

Using insufficient heat/power is much more likely to damage stuff than
'too much'. Reason: if the iron isn't hot enough, or is so under
powered or under massed that it can't get the joint hot quickly, heat
can flow into easily damaged components & raise their temp to damaging
levels before the joint gets hot enough to flow solder. (Same thing can
happen if the joint or iron isn't clean.)


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